This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This leveling leg is black in color and is made entirely of plastic. The manufacture has updated this part from the original. This part now measures approximately 1.859" and sold individually.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This door seal is fifty-three inches long. It is all black in color and is made of rubber. There are metallic clips sticking out of this seal at various points. These clips help to secure the seal to range doors.
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BARBARA
March 17, 2020
The burners want strick you have to light with a match
For model number CGR1425ADW
Hi Barbara,
Thank you for your question. A normally functioning igniter will typically click up to three times before it sparks. But, every now and then you may run into instances where the igniter continues to click or tick even after the burner is lit, or the burner never lights at all. A clicking igniter typically is not dangerous and may continue to click if the gas is shut off. One of the most common sources of this issue is that the burner cap is out of place. Make sure the cooktop is completely cooled and remove the Burner Grate to access the cap. Try removing the cap and center it on the base. If the burner cap is askew, it can prevent the burner from lighting. If that doesn’t work, check for moisture. If you recently had a pot boil over on burner, a food or grease spill, or cleaned the cooktop, there may still be moisture present even if it looks dry. Remove the burner cap and give the burner time to air dry. To speed up the process, make sure all the burners are off and towel off the top of the range. You can then either use a fan aimed at the range top or set your oven to 350°F and leave it on for around 30 minutes to speed up dry time. If you see that there is debris stuck in the holes in the burner, that could also potentially be the culprit. You can use a metal pin or paper clip to clear the debris out of the grooves. Never use items such as toothpicks to do this, they may break off and get lodged inside. If you get through all of these tips and still have the clicking problem, it may be the spark module, spark ignition switch or the igniter itself. You can find replacements for your model stove for purchase on our website. If you feel comfortable, this is a repair you can do yourself. But, if you are ever unsure do not hesitate to contact a technician and consult your owner’s manual. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed that rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
.gif "SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION Diagram and Parts List for Magic Chef Range")
