CG34700BDV Crosley Range - Overview
Sections of the CG34700BDV
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$22.58
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Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
PartSelect #: PS2085070
Manufacturer #: 74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and an seven inch long dual wire lead with a plastic plug.
$118.27
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Sealed Burner Cap with Electrode
PartSelect #: PS11741733
Manufacturer #: WP3412D024-26
This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode. Please note this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket. Sold individually.
$111.31
In Stock
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Short Oven Sensor Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003225
Manufacturer #: 12001655
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
$58.73
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Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
PartSelect #: PS16875974
Manufacturer #: W11665456
This leveling leg is two inches long. It is all black in color and it is made entirely of plastic.
$31.95
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Top Burner Igniter
PartSelect #: PS2082000
Manufacturer #: 74004053
This top burner igniter comes with a mounting bracket.
$35.46
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Range Door Gasket
PartSelect #: PS11749287
Manufacturer #: WPW10162384
This oven door gasket comes with built in retaining clips.
$110.58
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Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$28.95
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Single Outlet Water Valve Kit
PartSelect #: PS358631
Manufacturer #: 4318047
The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical power, water is released from the supply line through the water valve ...
$57.02
In Stock
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Range Door Hinge
PartSelect #: PS11744423
Manufacturer #: WP74011140
Each hinge is sold seperately.
$157.62
In Stock
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Spark Module - Oven
PartSelect #: PS2094592
Manufacturer #: 8215557
This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
$168.19
In Stock
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Range Anti-Tip Bracket
PartSelect #: PS11741944
Manufacturer #: WP3801F656-51
Sold individually.
$11.72
In Stock
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Questions And Answers for CG34700BDV
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William
September 3, 2021
It's a natural gas stove but I run on liquid propane. How do I convert it when online it says I don't need a conversion kit. When I use it it lets fumes and sit on my pots and pans orange Flame etc
For model number CG34700BDV
Hello William, Thank you for the question. There is no liquid propane conversion kit required as you just flip the cap on the Regulator and adjust the level on the Orifices. We hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the CG34700BDV
[Viewing 13 of 13]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Element will not heat
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Ice maker not making ice
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Gas smell
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Leaking
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Touchpad does not respond
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Parts Used:
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James from Berwick, ME
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Parts Used:
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george from birmingham, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
Parts Used:
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Matthew from Brookfield, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
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