This NSF-certified refrigerator water filter is engineered to improve the taste, clarity, and safety of your drinking water by reducing contaminants such as mercury, lead, and trace pharmaceuticals. D...
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
The Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor is an OEM replacement part for some GE refrigerators. It is responsible for circulating air over the evaporator coils, which are responsible for cooling the refri...
Get your GE refrigerator back to its peak performance with our GE Water Inlet Valve Assembly. This essential part is your solution to continuous functionality of your ice maker and water dispenser. It...
This LED light and cover assembly is designed for the fresh food compartment of compatible refrigerators, providing bright, energy-efficient illumination to help you easily see and access stored items...
If your fridge is building up too much frost or not cooling evenly, this defrost thermostat might be the issue. It helps control the temperature during the defrost cycle by shutting off the heater whe...
If your fridge is frosting up or not cooling like it should, this defrost heater might be the issue. It melts ice off the coils so your fridge can stay cool and run efficiently. It’s a genuine replace...
If your fridge isn’t staying cool or you’re hearing strange noises from the back, the condenser fan motor might be the problem. This part helps move air over the coils to keep things cool and running ...
Facing problems with your fridge's defrost cycle? The GE HEATER DEF Assembly FZ could be the solution you've been looking for. This vital piece of kit helps your refrigerator maintain its optimum effi...
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I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
