CFE28TSHLSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.

After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.

I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.

went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.

put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

removed frig bottom long drawer, removed the 2 narrower drawers above that. removed 2 plastic plates above the long drawer and unplugged pigtail. removed lower drawer slides and the back coil cover. removed small shroud that contained the fan pigtail and then removed the fan and replaced with the new one. fixed cooling issue and took 10 minutes from start to finish.

Opened the package. Set screw fell on floor. Luckily cat found it right away. Fight the cat for the screw. Dug through my tools and the first Allen wrench I picked up fit. "What the hell? That never happens so obviously the screw won't fit," I think to myself. Put the screw in the hole and give it a few turns until my fat finger can't hold it. It's a miracle and the thing fits! Fight the close quarters with the Allen wrench to tighten it. Works like a charm!! Now I don't scare myself when I open the door thinking I'm going to rip the handle right off. Now I have easy access to my ice cream. The parts finder tool on the website was really easy and I found what I was looking for.

Took out the old parts and replaced it with the new parts. The new OVERLOAD PTCR COMBO was different then the one that we replaced so we called customer service and they told us which wire to insert into each of the 2 slots and it is working like new again. Outstanding and knowledgeable customer service.

Repair man thought it was the control board and an issue with a relay on the board. Purchased the new board but found out the board was fine, and it was the recirculating fan that would go out intermediately.

Tried ordering that part from Part Select since they have been great, but GE discontinued the part and their was not a replacement available. After much research, found the new replacement part number and ordered that, it went in quickly and for now seems to have solved the problem.

Removed the bad inlet valve and installed the replacement. Very easily done. The replacement part made the repair so simple and saved me a huge amount over calling a repair man. It did not take any special knowledge.

It was super easy! The glass came packaged and safe. Once I unwrapped it, I slid it in the firdge and it just popped into place. So super easy. And now we know for next time when taking it out to clean, (the reason it shattered in the first place) you should let the glass get to room tempurature before cleaning it with water or it will shatter! OOPS!

Move the refrigerator away from the wall.
Disconnect the refrigerator.
Remove bottom drawer.
Remove two criisper drawers.
Remove crisper drawer slides, one bolt near the front of each slide.
Push slides off pin at back.
Remove bottom panel at the back of the refrigerator to access fan.
Remove fan, held with a couple of screws.
Remove rubber gasket from around old fan and put the gasket around new fan.
install new fan and bolt in place.
Replace lower panel at back at back of refrigerator.
Reinstall drawer slides, hook at back and bold at front
Reinstall drawers.
Reconnect refrigerator power.
Push refrigerator back in place and adjust feed to hold in place.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing