This is a flood switch assembly for your washer. The flood switch controls the hot and cold water filling your washer tub to ensure the proper amount of water. You may need to replace this part if you...
This is replacement door latch for your dishwasher. The door latch is attached to the tub frame, and connects to the door strike to keep your dishwasher door closed during operation. If you have a bro...
This is a genuine GE dishwasher leveling screw. It operates as a leg on the bottom of your dishwasher, and can be screwed in and out to raise and lower the height of the dishwasher. It is made of meta...
This part is the replacement tub trim for your dishwasher. It is approximately 26 inches long and 2 inches wide. The tub trim is found on the exterior of the dishwasher, and the main reason you would ...
This is a genuine hex head screw replacement, designed for use with dishwashers. Most of this type of screw is used to hold the kickplate in place on the bottom of your appliance. This screw is sold i...
$10.28
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Barbara
January 3, 2020
The select cycle display is alluminated but doesn’t give me a cycle option.
For model number CDT765SSF0SS
Good Day Barbara. This is sometimes caused by the door not being entirely closed, we would recommend checking to see that your is closed all the way. If this was the case, close the door completely and then press start and then your unit should work. Hope this helps. Best Regards.
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We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve. I extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.
1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel 2. Open dishwasher door 3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter. 4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch. 5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside. 6. Remove old door latch. 7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in. 8. Plug wire harness into new door latch. 9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position. 10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly. 11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel. The dishwasher should now function properly.
Ran the diagnostic code test and no alarms turned on. Ran the heater test and it didn't turn on. I figured it was either the flood switch or the heating element itself. Removed and cleaned the flood switch and still nothing. Replaced the old flood switch and now it works like a charm. It took a minute to run tests and figure out a plan of action, but after ordering and receiving the part it was a quick operation to replace the old flood switch. Kill the power. Remove lower basket. Remove lower arm. Remove the coarse filter and the fine filter. Dry up water in bottom of dishwasher. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove two screws holding flood switch in place. Unplug old switch. Plug in new one. And put everything back. Saved a few bucks for sure. If I can do it, you can do it!
