This high limit thermostat has a limit of 260 degrees Fahrenheit. Meaning that it will cut out when the internal dryer temperature reaches 260. This thermostat cuts back in when the temperature drops ...
This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating. This part is located in the blower housing.
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Les
October 14, 2022
Code: "E90" keeps bleeping and I can't use the machine. What does the code mean? How do I turn it off? This happen to me a few weeks ago and the Frigidaire service clerk advised that I should pull the power plug and wait one minute before turning it on again. It worked then. Now it happened again and it keeps bleeping even after I disconnected for a minute. What should I do now?
For model number BKQE7017KT0
Hello Les, thank you for your question. The E90 error indicates a faulty electronic control board. The electronic control board, part number PS2367787, needs to be checked and replaced. Customer service is always available to help you place an order if you are having trouble doing so. Good luck with your repair.
When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replacing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)
All the symptoms indicated the thermister (located in the exhaust air stream of the dryer) was the problem. Pulled the lower panel off the dryer. Took out the two lower screws holding the door panel on so I could pull the front panel out just enough to get a screwdriver on the screws holding the thermister on. Unhooked the two wires connected to it and hooked them to the new thermister(no need to observe polarity). Put the new thermister in, screwed the door panel back down, put the lower panel on and started drying clothes.