These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
$7.31
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This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft....
$26.58
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The agitator kit is most commonly used if the top part of the agitator is not moving correctly but the bottom is. This kit now includes all pieces shown in photo plus the thrust spacer, inner cap seal...
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The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
$13.95
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A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
$52.79
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$15.95
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This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ...
$8.82
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Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
$14.71
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Questions And Answers for ATW4475VQ1
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Mary
June 22, 2023
I can’t get hot water to come to the machine. Checked all filter on hoses and even put on new hose. What next? I see that there might be a part for that is that what I need?
For model number ATW4475VQ1
Hello Mary, thank you for the question. Since you have checked and replaced the hoses, we recommend you replace the water inlet valve, part number PS11749042. As it is not allowing the hot water to enter the washer. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
Hello Kevonia, thank you for the question. You may need to check the continuity of the lid switch, part number PS11745957. If it is faulty, then you may need to replace the lid switch to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
The washer overflowed when set on large load but does fine when on normal load setting. We had been using the large load setting for awhile with no issues. I don’t know if we overfilled it or if there is a level switch that failed. Does this model have a high level switch?
For model number ATW4475VQ1
Hello David, thank you for your question. You Water Level/ Pressure Switch is faulty PS11750715. Good luck and have a great day.
Everything runs good.No leakage. the machine cycle is working fine.the problem is the knob very hard to push in a stay to turn, the cycle indicator seems to move loosely an i don't know what cycle im on? can you help?
For model number ATW4475VQ1
Hi Mitchell,
Thank you for your question. If the knob is hard to push in and turn, the issue may be with either the timer knob, the dial skirt or the timer. You will need to check each of these parts to where the problem lies and replace the part causing the issue. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
The instructions came with the repair kit, it was fairly simple and straight foward.
One bolt held the entire agitator unit in the washer, as well as held the upper and lower halves together. Once that nut was removed the two halves seperated and the plastic clutch pieces could easily be replaced wtih the new onces in the repair kit.
Very easy do-it-yourself repair! Took about 20 minutes because I was being cautious. Next time I could do it in 5 minutes.
