AOGD2750SS-P113253NSS Amana Wall Oven - Instructions

If your stove work's but your oven won't get hot it is your ignigter the ignighter in proper working condition sends a signal to the gas valve saying let the gas flow its ok. When the ignighter quits working it won't let the gas flow and your oven will not get hot. It is an easy fix. Just pull out all of interior parts the racks and the bottom heat shield the ignighter the white stone looking part that is screwed to the burner with two wires and it really don't matter what way the wires go back one of the wires connects in the back so you will have to pull the oven out. Now you have to clean under it and your done.

Removed oven door and burner guard. Removed screws holding ignitor bracket and small panel beneath oven door. Disconnected ignitor wires behind panel and pulled out ignitor. Removed old ignitor from bracket and inserted new unit. Fed wires back down thru tubing and screwed in bracket. Connected wires and replaced panel. (Note: old ignitor glowed but would not pass enough current to operate gas valve)

This is a very easy repair as the sensor had 2 screws and slid out of the back of the inside of the oven just enough to hook up the new one. I never had to back the oven out of the wall. It is a 5 minute repair. Ok I did use my son's head lamp from scouts for better light as you have to kill the power to the oven, so no oven light. And you can't hold a flashlight and do this alone.

However, I ordered the part before I took the old part out. Don't do that. There are 2 froms of Temp sensors that you can order one male and one female. I did not know that and just ordered what looked to be the right part. It turned out that I needed the female sensor. When I called the folks at part select they were terrific! They sent out the new part the next day and a UPS form via email to send the other part back.

I don't know what a service call would have been but this was very easy. I will go here first for appliance parts. Women can fix stuff too!

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

First turn off power to stove with breaker or unplug it. Then remove three screws under the front of cook top, and lifted up cook top from the front. Then brace it up with a stick about 20 inches long so you can work. Now locate the latch at the front of range. Next get some paper and labeled where each wire is connected by color. Remove wires from old part, next take out two screws by the front of part. Remove a clip on left side of part that is holding the wires. Take old part out and replace with new part, put back the two screws in front of part. Next put the wires back on using the list you made. Then replace clip to hold wires. Now turn power back on,or plug it back in. Reset clock and your done.

The repairman that had come had stated that this part is no longer made, but I was able to locate one through PartSelect and was able to replace it with minimal effort.

I removed the three screws that held down the stove glass top surface and had a person hold the stove top up while I removed the two screws which held the autolatch assembly in place. I then swapped the leads from the failed assembly to the new one and replaced the screws which were removed. New assembly tested out fine and oven was able to self-clean again.

ordered new broiler pan

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

turn the power off first, remove knobs, removed burners,disconnected wire from igniter,raise the top of the stove,re rmoved wire from the door lock removed two screws remove the door lock itself, then put all back on in same order as I remove. Main thing to remember is to writeyour colors of the wire down so you know where to replace them.

The key to this repair was making sure I typed in the correct model number and serial number so that I got the correct part. I had read here that a couple of folks had received the wrong temperature sensor (i.e. it had the male plug instead of the female plug). Unfortunately I had to call the local appliance repair guy as the plug could not be accessed from the interior of the oven. It was easy to remove the 2 screws that held it in place but I could not pull enough of the wire out to access the plug. The local repair guy pulled to oven out and removed the back in order to unpluy the bad sensor and plug in the new one. It was actually kind of nice that he came as he used a digital thermometer to cycle the oven through a couple of warm ups to see if it was actually working correctly. It worked fine and my wife was happy again. The $75 I spent on the repairman was darn well worth it. "Happy wife = happy life!"

Removed the old sensor which is held into the upper right of the back of the oven by removing the two screws and pulling the sensor out. Then disconnected the sensor from its connector. Replace the old with the new by simply clicking it into the connector. Then pushed the wire back into the oven wall and screwed the two screws back in. The whole job took about one minute to do after evaluating the process. While it was not necessary to remove the door, I did (which was very easy) and ended up cleaning the glass inside and out. All in all, a complete success. Oven working as new.