Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
3 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Booker
October 14, 2022
IGNITER DOES NOT GLOW
For model number AGR4230BAW3
Hello Booker, Thank you for your inquiry. If the igniter is not glowing, we would recommend testing it with a multimeter for continuity. They should be reading between 0 - 1100 ohms to be working correctly. . If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, we have videos available to assist you. Good luck with your repair and if you need assistance with placing an order, please do not hesitate to call our customer service, open 7 days a week to help you. We look forward to hearing from you.
Are the spud-orfce W11035598 for natural gas or LP gas? I need an orifices kit to convert my range from natural to LP
For model number AGR4230BAW3
Hello Steve, thank you for contacting us. Yes, the conversion kit, part number PS12070369, is a conversion kit from natural gas to LP. It contains all the orifice spuds needed for your model number. We hope this helps.
Hello Thressa, thank you for your question. The cooktop will continue to spark if the igniter doesn't think the flame is touching it. If it's touching the spark tip now and it keeps sparking, the spark tip either needs to be replaced because it's not sending, or the spark module is bad and the module will need to be replaced. We hope this will help.
As for getting under the cooktop, you'd need to unscrew all the burner bases and remove the burner bases, then the top just lift up and hinges backwards.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
pulled out the stove and removed bottom drip plates to access the old ignitor. Removed 2 screws after unplugging the two wire ignitor. fished the the two wires thru back of stove and plugged them in where old wires were. put the 2 screws back into the new ignitor and tested before replacing drip plates. been cooking in the oven ever since, no problem.. Part was a perfect replacement.
Replace two igniters that were not working. Did not fix the problem. Swapped wire positions from Spark Module and noted that the problem followed the igniter positions. Replaced Spark Module. Problem solved. Procedure required disconnecting a/c power, removing four screws, removing igniter wires from old module and reconnecting them to new module. Reinstalled new Spark Module in range. Reconnected a/c power. Test successful. Total time: 20 minutes.
