This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This part is a temperature sensing devise. It senses the rise in evaporator temperature during a defrost cycle and cycles the defrost heater off after all frost is melted. It is calibrated to permit...
This defrost heater part number W11175809) is for refrigeration appliances.
The defrost heater melts frost from the evaporator fins during the automatic defrost cycle.
Safely store any food that...
This is the mechanics (motor/engine) of the cooling system. It kicks in whenever the thermostat demands cooling. ***NOTE: This part needs to be installed by a trained professional in appliance repa...
the gasket peels back to reveal the approx 20 screwsholding gasket and door shelves. removed these. removed old gasket from door panel. new gasket needs to be stretched to get on door panel. align screw holes in door panel with screw holes in gasket. attached back to freezer door. this gasket did not seal securely when closing door. this gasket was installed on a cold day in a garage and may become more flexible as it warms up.
Disconnect power / Remove shelves / remove sheet metal panel in rear of freezer / disconnect fan wires / remove fan unit using nut driver. / reassemble.
After observing defrost timer go into (and out of), defrost cycle, I checked continuity of heating element. Since heater coil was intact (79 Ohms of resistance), I figured the defrost thermostat (aka bi-metal therm.), had to be at fault. The new part ($17.00), proved my suspicions correct. As I sought to determine if everything worked, I had to wait for the temp. to drop below the defrost therm. set point before I would see the heater coil get hot. To avoid the costly failure in future, I bought a Chaney wireless therometer with two remote sensors. Sensors require lithium batteries. $30.00 for both are a cheap insurance system.
