This is the replacement large surface element for your cooktop or range. It is approximately 10-inches in diameter and is 1200/2500 watts. The large surface element is installed under the cooktop and ...
This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven. This bake element is for ranges.
The bake element is at the bottom of the oven and supplies the heat for baking.
Unplug the range or shut of...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
Sold individually. This is a radiant surface element with a limiter, and it works in conjunction with your range. The function of this part is to give heat to the surface directly above it, on cooking area stovetop.
This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
This door hinge can be used for the left or right side. As per the manufacturer if the hinges have never been replaced on the appliance, they suggest to replace the door hinge receptacle kit.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
First and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I located the breaker switch for my oven and turned it off. I verified this by noticing that the electric clock on the oven display was no longer powered.
After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place.
Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.
I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.
I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.
I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.
Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!
Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.
