AER5715RCS Amana Range - Overview
Sections of the AER5715RCS
[Viewing 7 of 7]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$22.58
In Stock
Long Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS1570174
Manufacturer #: 12001656
The oven sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity and sends the information to the control board. If your oven is not heating evenly, has little or no heat when baking, or is too hot, you...
$53.22
In Stock
Oven Bake Element
PartSelect #: PS11751723
Manufacturer #: WPW10276482
If your oven isn’t heating evenly or not heating at all, this bake element might be the fix. It’s the part at the bottom of the oven that gets hot and helps bake your food just right. Made to fit mode...
$179.42
In Stock
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
PartSelect #: PS11764915
Manufacturer #: W10823711
This 6-inch, 1200-watt radiant surface heating element is a genuine replacement part designed for select ranges. It supplies consistent heat to the designated cooking zone on the stovetop, ensuring ev...
$217.02
In Stock
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
PartSelect #: PS16875974
Manufacturer #: W11665456
This leveling leg is two inches long. It is all black in color and it is made entirely of plastic.
$27.85
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.58
In Stock
Surface Radiant Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11764906
Manufacturer #: W10823696
Sold individually.
$297.13
In Stock
Inner Door Glass Pane
PartSelect #: PS2081701
Manufacturer #: 74003645
Keep your oven safe and functional with this replacement interior door glass, the heat-resistant panel that lines the inside of your oven door. With dimensions of approximately 20 5/8" x 13 1/8", it f...
$160.20
In Stock
Range Screw w/Washer
PartSelect #: PS11744138
Manufacturer #: WP74006515
This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
$10.09
In Stock
Range Terminal Block
PartSelect #: PS11750972
Manufacturer #: WPW10245259
It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
$43.19
In Stock
Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS11744255
Manufacturer #: WP74008763
Sold individually.
$188.24
Special Order
Appliance Scraper
PartSelect #: PS408570
Manufacturer #: WA906B
Use this scraper for your ceramic/glass cooktop. It has a retractable blade and is an all-purpose tool for cooktops, mirrors, windows and tile. Use it to also remove paint, paper, dirt, stickers and more.
$13.68
In Stock
Questions And Answers for AER5715RCS
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Common Symptoms of the AER5715RCS
[Viewing 10 of 10]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Touchpad does not respond
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Will not program
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Right rear burner went bad
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
Parts Used:
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Mark from Loxahatchee, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
153 of 182 people
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
Parts Used:
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David from Westford, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven wouldn't get hot enough
First and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I located the breaker switch for my oven and turned it off. I verified this by noticing that the electric clock on the oven display was no longer powered.
After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place.
Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.
I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.
I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.
I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.
Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!
Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.
After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place.
Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.
I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.
I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.
I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.
Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!
Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.
Parts Used:
-
Shawn from Atlantic Highlands, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
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