This is a flood switch assembly for your washer. The flood switch controls the hot and cold water filling your washer tub to ensure the proper amount of water. You may need to replace this part if you...
This is an end cap for a dishwasher rack. This part is about 2.5 inches long, is black, and is made of plastic. You may need to replaced this part if it is broken, or if your dishwasher rack continuou...
This is replacement door latch for your dishwasher. The door latch is attached to the tub frame, and connects to the door strike to keep your dishwasher door closed during operation. If you have a bro...
This kit includes the lower and middle spray arms. Water is forced through this spray arm by the unit's pump and motor assembly. The force of the water propels the spray arms, spraying water and deter...
This is a genuine GE dishwasher leveling screw. It operates as a leg on the bottom of your dishwasher, and can be screwed in and out to raise and lower the height of the dishwasher. It is made of meta...
This is a lower rack roller for your dishwasher. It attaches in the lower roller assembly on the bottom of your rack to allow the rack to smoothly slide in and out. This replacement part is 1.5 inches...
Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid door back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.
We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve. I extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.
1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel 2. Open dishwasher door 3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter. 4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch. 5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside. 6. Remove old door latch. 7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in. 8. Plug wire harness into new door latch. 9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position. 10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly. 11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel. The dishwasher should now function properly.
