This gas dryer ignition coil set comes with two ignition coils: one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two terminal secondary coil. Usually only one of them burns out but you should replace them ...
This kit comes with three separate thermal fuses and is usually used with clothes dryers that have a fan mounted on the motor shaft. Included within this kit is the high limit (Limit: 258) the gas hig...
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.This flame sensor is three inches long and is used for many gas clothes dryers.This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
Included in this rear drum support roller kit are 4 screws, 1 spacers, 2 washers, 2 retaining rings, 2 rear rollers, and 2 cylinder support shafts.
*** Note: Per manufacturer this kit has been upd...
This blower wheel clamp is less than an inch long and is used for some clothes dryers to hold the blower wheel firmly in place. This green clamp is made of metal.
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
1. Unplug dryer from power outlet 2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift. 3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum 4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse 5. Unplug red wires to the heating element 6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse 7. Remove high limit thermal fuse 8. Remove heating element 9. Remove high limit fuse 10 Clean heating box Installation is reverse order but do the following first! Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer 1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right 2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom 3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list. 4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on. 5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape.
There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.
