This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to c...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
The temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, or has little to no heat when baking, you may need to replace the temperature sensor...
If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, no...
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawe...
The electronic oven control board manages heating and temperature functions in wall ovens. Modified wiring may require professional installation. Unplug the oven or shut off the circuit breaker before replacing.
Ordered the part on Friday, got it on Saturday, very impressive. Be sure to unplug the range or disconnect the power at the breaker box before any repairs are started.
The lower (Bake) element is held in by 2 screws. Remove them and gently pull out the element to remove the power wires connected to the element. These wires are very short and there is not much room in which to work. After having removed the wire connectors one slipped from my fingers and went back in the small opening in the back of the oven where the element is inserted. It took some time to fish out the wire. Not wanting to slide out the range I used some surgical forcepts I happen to have grab the wire ( handy to clip wires or compontents in place for some delicate repairs). Its all blind and the opening is very small plus the insulation must be pushed back to gain access. Anyway I managed to grab the wire, attached both wires to the element, replaced the plate and screws holding the element in place, all finished. Worked great. Other ranges I have owned provided a socket to plug in the element, I guess the bottom line gets in the way of quality.. Being 60 years old the worst part of this job is the getting down on my knees to do the work and getting back up again.
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
Remove nobs from both switches. Pull out the range (the hardest part). REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel. Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets. The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws. Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch. When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches. Replace the back panel with 7 screws. In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
