This front-load door hinge is a genuine replacement component designed to support the door on compatible washers and dryers, ensuring smooth and secure pivoting during opening and closing. Constructed...
This hose attaches to water pump assembly.
NOTE: As per the manufacture if the washer has an Eco Ball, it's no longer needed when the new hose is installed.
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This door lock/latch assembly is an OEM replacement part for front-load washing machines. It secures the door during operation, preventing leaks and ensuring the washer functions correctly. A faulty d...
This is an actuator switch to trigger bleach, detergent, or fabric softener housings to be dispensed into the tub of your washing machine. If your detergent cups are not dispensing, you may need to re...
Upgrading your laundry room? We can help you save space effortlessly with our Whirlpool Long Vent Dryer Stack Kit. Designed specifically for certain Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Ing...
Running into trouble with your washing machine? It might be time to replace your detergent dispenser. Meet our Whirlpool Detergent Dispenser, a genuine, original manufacturer part. Designed to work wi...
$54.58
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Questions And Answers for 7MWFW95HEYL0
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I removed the 3 screws toward the top of the back of the washer to remove the top. After that, I located the water pressure level switch, slid it out of the slot into which it is secured, removed the narrow black tubing from the bottom of it, and draped the newly-unattached end of the tube so that it would be easy to find. Then I removed the set of wires and discarded the old switch.
Next I attached the wires to the new switch, attached the black tubing and put the switch back into the slot. I tested the washer and it worked. Next, I put the top back on using the 3 screws. That was it!
Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.
Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.
How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.
The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.
Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.
Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.
The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.
Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.
Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.
Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.
