79641563910 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Installed correctly but PartsSelect sent WRONG part, but part number on bag was correct. Installation of WRONG part fried the main board. A $100 fix is now costing me about $1300.00 for technician service and new unit. I asked PartsSelect to help with cost since outcome is due to their error. Totally unsatisfied. Will not suggest company to other DIYers.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

I ordered the Rotor Assembly and Sensor Assy..
Rotor Assy. was not the problem.
1 - 17mm bolt in the center of the rotor assy.
6 10mm bolts to take off the Stator assy.
once you have the Stator assy off, upplug the sensor assy and release the clips on the sensor assy. and remove.
Install the new sensor assy. and plug the electrical connection back in.
replace the 6 bolts and screw the bolts evenly around the Stator.
replace the Rotor Assy. and secure the 17mm bolt.
Replace the back cover (4 - philips screws.
Do a test load.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

I tipped the right side of the washer up 9.5 inches using two 2x4s and I was able to remove and replace the old hose with the tools described.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

UNPLUG WASHER.Unscrew 4 screws holding silver plate at back of unit. Remove plate to expose inside of unit. Locate drain hose at bottom of washer tub. Hose connects at front drain, bottom of tub, and at rear at the pressure sensor. Front and rear simply slide clamps down by grasping clamp tabs and sliding clamp off connection point. Disconnect from tub bottom by loosening main clamp with Phillips screwdriver and pulling downward. Have a towel handy as there will be water in the hose, and it will pour out when removing it from the unit. Installation is the reverse of removal. ATTACH THE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO THE DRUM FIRST, THEN FRONT, THEN LASTLY REAR. This order is the easiest way, otherwise you will spend extra minutes trying to get the tub connection to seat properly. Plug it back in (duh), then you're good to go for another 4 years or so until another hole wears in the hose. I have performed this repair on 3 different units, with 4 years being the average lifespan of this part.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!