This is a genuine replacement switch. It is a push button style switch that is designed for use in your refrigerator. When the door of your appliance is opened the switch is released, and the light co...
This tray cover, also known as the front drawer cover, fits on the front of the bottom drawer in your refrigerator. It is made of plastic and is white and clear in color. The cover creates a seal in y...
This handle screw, also known as a mounting bolt, is a mounting screw to help secure the door handle to your refrigerator door. If your handle is loose, you may just need to tighten the screw. If your...
This part is the replacement water line or tube for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. This tube supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser If your refri...
This lamp cover is also commonly referred to as a light lens. This is a genuine replacement part. It is used in a refrigerator to cover the light bulb. It is made of clear plastic. It measures 14 inch...
Remove water filter and water filter holder. Removed cover on back of frig. Removed clip where water line connects to back of water filter. Took half inch wrench pushed in on water line lock to release line. Repeat at other end. Reverse steps to put on new line. Easy repair.
This refrigerator/freezer problem had been escalating for almost a year, requiring me to frequently knock the ice buildup free with a rubber mallet. I finally decided to try to identify the problem by removing the freezer door and all of the shelves and shelf tracks (easily removed with only a phillips screwdriver). Then I removed the back plastic panel to expose the cooling coils, which were partially encased in ice. I deduced that the evaporator fan motor was failing, which blows air over the freezer cooling coils and forces the cool air up into the upper refrigerator section (which was not staying cold). I then found and ordered the fan motor from part select. Their search function and exploded drawing schematics made it easy to identify the part and part number. It seems the original part number had been superceded with a new number, which I ordered. Once it arrived after about a week, I transferred the fan blades from the old motor to the new fan motor, and after completely drying out the freezer compartment, I reinstalled all of the parts and plugged in the unit and waited. By the next day, the refrigerator was operating at peak efficiency, and the ice buildup in the freezer has not returned. I was very close to scrapping the entire refrigerator as junk, but with a little diagnostic effort and about $110 for the new motor, I have a fully functioning refrigerator again. Thanks to Part Select for a great experience.
Turn off power, remove upper and lower drawers (may need to open upper refrigerator doors to remove large freezer bin,) remove drawer supports (upper and lower), remove rear freezer panel (trick is to loosen 4 screws on fan bumpout to get the panel to come free from the freezer side wall), test thermistor with multimeter (should have continuity or near zero resistance across 2 orange fuse wires) before cutting zip ties, cut zip ties holding Thermistor in place, remove old Thermistor, install new Thermistor, install new zip ties, replace rear freezer panel, install upper and lower drawer supports, install drawers, turn on power, should be fixed if error code doesn't return after 6 hours.
