79097478790 Kenmore Range - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range

All the was needed was a Phillips screw driver. It's not difficult. Watch out because the door is spring loaded and does seperate quickly after all the screws are out. Be sure to watch the front panel, it appears to be heavy glass and can come out of the slots during the repair. I only had to re-assemble and dis-assemble 4 times before I got it right but it's still fairly easy to do if you take your time.

Remove old element by removing two screws on back wall of oven, pull attached wires out about 6" and disconnect. Reverse to install, very easy. Of course the oven door makes it harder to get at things, but it all worked out. Partselect was the only place I could find the element since the stove is 18 years old. I love keeping appliances going as long as possible.

Pulled out the stove, removed the screws that held on the back panel, took out the 2 screws that held in the element and disconnected the wires and put the new one in. I put the screw back in and was finished!

was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

order pcs fit perfect.

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

removed old terminal block . cut wires and spliced new terminal block and insulated with shrink wrap. Very eazy

i had to remove all the broken glass then removed the metal that was holding the glass. set the new glass in the metal strips and screwed it back togethr. i also had to remove the frame from the door in order to get to the inside glass. then i had to put the door back together.

The repair was fairly easy. The oven door was attached to a spring arm that had one screw holding each arm to the door. Once off, the outside set of screws were removed and saved in a small dish. Each section had 6-10 screws, to it's best to keep each set separate from each other. Each of the three layers (of the door) came apart easily by removing the screws for each section. The inside (broken glass) lifted out, was replaced, and the sequence was repeated in reverse. During the reassembly I was able to clean the other layers of glass that had gotten build-up on them over the years. Total time start to finish was about 30 minutes. Only tool required was a screw driver! Probably saved 100+ dollars!