This surface burner switch controls the stove top 8-inch surface burner temperature. This switch is 240-volt, 2100-2600 watt, and 8.8-10.8 amp. If your element is not defective but will not heat, you ...
$52.64
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The temperature sensor, also known as an oven probe, detects the temperature within the oven cavity. This temperature sensor is 9 inches in length and is a genuine OEM part. If your oven is too hot, n...
$78.07
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This handle mounting screw works with your oven or range, and bolts the door handle to the door. It is approximately 2 inches in length and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. If yo...
$29.12
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This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside yo...
$30.38
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This cooktop element gives you two heating sizes in one—9 inches and 6 inches—so you can cook with different pots and pans easily. It heats up fast and evenly, helping meals cook just right. If your c...
$226.02
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Struggling with a sticky, stubborn stove drawer? Our Frigidaire Range Front Drawer Glide is here to restore the easy glide of your cooker's storage or broil drawer. Produced as an authentic OEM part, ...
$25.31
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This part helps your oven broil food by heating from the top. If your oven isn’t getting hot enough, broiling unevenly, or the element looks burnt or broken, this replacement can help. It fits many Fr...
$225.24
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This switch controls the stove top surface burner. This surface element control switch is for ranges.
Surface element control switch turns the surface element on and off and controls how much heat...
$197.02
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Questions And Answers for 7909622340C
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Diane
December 15, 2022
Error F10, what does this mean
For model number 7909622340C
Hi Diane, thank you for reaching out. The F10 error code means that the appliance is experiencing runaway temperatures. To fix this error, you need to check the main control board, part number PS3419407, and temperature sensor, part number PS1528542. We hope this helps! If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
