This surface burner switch controls the stove top 8-inch surface burner temperature. This switch is 240-volt, 2100-2600 watt, and 8.8-10.8 amp. If your element is not defective but will not heat, you ...
This surface burner element is eight inches in diameter. It has five turns, 2600 watts and looped terminal ends. The element provides heat to the cooking surface on your range. If your element is not ...
This is an 8-inch drip bowl for your range or cooktop. It is made of porcelain and is black in color. Place the drip pan under your burner to catch food that may drip or spill while you cook. It is 10...
This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside yo...
This drip bowl is a genuine OEM replacement part for your stovetop. It is black in color, made of porcelain, and six inches in diameter. To replace the drip pan, you simply need to remove the burner e...
This element has looped terminal ends and comes with a black medallion center. This element is a genuine OEM replacement part, has looped terminal ends, comes with a black medallion center, and fits m...
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe. I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up. the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires. After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
Pulled stove out. Removed screws(5) holding top unit. Tipped top unit to get at the control panel. Removed screws holding control panel. Removed wires from old one and put on to the new one. Reinstalled top panel and turn breaker back on.PS I didn't order a new face panel so had to gentley remove from the old and put on the new panel(before reinstalling). I would suggest getting a new one when ordering this conrtol panel.
