This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
NOTE: This replacement ice maker mechanism does NOT come with a cover, shut off arm, a wire harness, or the mounting hardware. Those must be ordered separately, or you can use the existing parts.
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will covert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
This part is both the start relay and the overload. The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against ...
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
This is a light switch for your refrigerator. It activates when the door of your appliance is opened, and it will turn the light inside on and off. You will need to replace this part is if your light ...
This part is the replacement water filter cover for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 13 inches long and 4 inches wide at the widest point. The water filter cover pro...
$77.60
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Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
Parts were available at the locat applicance store, but the cost was 20-25% higher than ordering through Parts Select (including shipping) + it was delivered in 3 days right to the house.
Removing and replacing the ice maker was fairly straight forward. Tight quarters to work in, but managable.
1. With the freezer turned off, uplug the ice maker power cable at the back of the freezer. 2. Remove the four phillips head screws and ice bucket rail to the side of the freezer. I found it was easier to re-install the new ice maker with the rail clear off. 3. Loosen the two upper hex head screws holding the ice maker (requires a nut driver). 4. Lift the ice maker up and off of the upper screws. 5. With the ice maker out of the freezer, remove the power cable from the old ice maker and re-install on the new ice maker. At this point, both the front cover and the on/off lift bar can be transfered from the old ice maker to the new one. 6. Slip the new ice maker down over the two upper screws making sure the lower mounting tab is behind the ice bucket rail. Make sure the hole on lower mounting tab lines up with screw hole. 7. Re-install the ice bucket rail and tighten all screws. Make sure the water supply tube is lined up correctly feeding into the ice maker. 8. Re-connect ice maker power cable at the back of freezer and turn freezer back on.
It took about 4 hours for the first ice to generate. It cycled normally after that. No more leaks or ice globs in the ice bucket.
