41572 LG Washer - Instructions

There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replace the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Followed directions on the video and went like a charm. Very impressed with service and video

I did repaired while looking at video at your site .thanks to your team ..

Just aligned and pushed in.

1 - Remove 3 electrical connections
2 - Slide spring clamp back an inch or so on 1 hose. Pull hose off of old unit. Attach the same hose to new unit and reclamp.
3 - Repeat with other 2 hoses
4 - Reconnect electrical connections

Pulled out the old plunger and inserted new one. Just have to make sure the tabs align with the slots.

I followed the video and my repair went just like the expert showed on the video. The hardest part was pulling the washer away from the wall and getting enough elbow room to be able to work on the washer. I will definitely come back to this site for my next appliance repair.

Went to U tube found several good videos relative to the problem, suggest you do the same. Heavy rubber diaphragm seal retainer spring VERY difficult to expand, bought a replacement spring with less tension and it worked fine. Plastic clip at the back of the cabinet does not have to be removed. Squeeze it and it will unlatch to free the hose, The part supplied was an exact replacement for the original, it worked just fine. Good luck.

Very simple. Watched video.
Pulled the washer out to get behind it.
Turned off water supply, unplugged it.
Unscrewed the screwesholding the top in place, slid top back, lifted it off.
Used pliers to open the clamps holding the pipes to the valve - one at a time. And fitted the pipes to new valve, one at a time.
SOME WATER REMAINS IN THESE PIPES, SO PUT A TOWEL UNDERNEATH TO CATCH IT.
Removed the electrical connectors one at a time and fitted them to the new valve one at a time.
Did same to the hot valve - not leaking but decided to replace it before it did leak.
Reattached water supply hoses and electric plug.
Tested the washer cycle to make sure no leaks.
Put top back on and pushed washer back to wall.
Apart from the testing, the whole job took 25 minutes.
The parts arrived on Day 2 after the order.
VERY PLEASED WITH EVERYTHING!

Unplug the washer! Turn off the HOT water valve. Remove the hot water hose at the connection on the back of the washer. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top of the washer. Slide the lid toward the rear until you feel it disengage, then lift it off, setting it aside.
Unplug the electrical connector on top of the hot water valve (just pulls off).using pliers compress the hose clamp, slide it away from the hot water valve and pull the hose off the valve fitting(it will have some water remaining so lift it up and secure it to the brace above the hoses).
Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the valve in place. Pull the valve toward the front of the washer to remove it and compare it to the new valve.
To install the new valve, reverse all steps insuring tight water hose clamp and electrical connection. Install hot water hose, plug it in and turn on water. Test run and check for leaks. Unplug it and reinstall top.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

E. Z. hardest part (which isn't hard) was moving the appliance to reach the back, then putting the appliance back into place. the actual repair (swapping out valve) took less time than that to do.

I followed the video -- to take apart and reversed the steps to re-install. It was fairly straight forward and corrected the issue.

First unplug the machine. Turn the water off to the hoses. Remove the hoses from the machine to make it easier. Remove the screws from the back of the top cover. Pry the front sides with a screwdriver and lift. Standing behind the machine on the left side you’ll see the three solenoids or inlet assembly. Remove the two screws so as to take the inlet assembly out. There are hoses attached to the assembly.