Models > 36358047897

36358047897 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the 36358047897

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Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS1993872
Manufacturer #: WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
$92.24
  Special Order
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$14.78
  Special Order
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
Bottom Hinge Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS290199
Manufacturer #: WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
$76.60
  Special Order
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$5.85
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Light Switch – Part Number: WR23X10725
Light Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
$22.52
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Dual Inlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X10051
Dual Inlet Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS901314
Manufacturer #: WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$78.51
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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
Replacement icemaker kit - electronic. This kit includes a 4 pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connector, tube and fill cup.
$336.94
  Special Order
Hinge Cam Riser – Part Number: WR02X10140
Hinge Cam Riser
PartSelect #: PS284596
Manufacturer #: WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
$15.38
  Special Order
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X489
Defrost Timer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS310858
Manufacturer #: WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
$82.36
  Special Order
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X10010
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306735
Manufacturer #: WR72X10010
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The crisper draw will slide in and out along ...
  No Longer Available
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
Run Capacitor
PartSelect #: PS11764031
Manufacturer #: WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
  No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X10009
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306734
Manufacturer #: WR72X10009
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
$44.26
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for 36358047897

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Common Symptoms of the 36358047897

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Fridge too warm
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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer section too warm
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Light not working
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door Sweating
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the refrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
Parts Used:
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
  • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
407 of 432 people found this instruction helpful.
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Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
Parts Used:
Dual Inlet Water Valve
  • anthony from thornton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
286 of 306 people found this instruction helpful.
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No power to the fan and compressor
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not making it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
Parts Used:
Run Capacitor Light Socket
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
222 of 297 people found this instruction helpful.
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