36358047893 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
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Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$17.70
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Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
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Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$79.98
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Bottom Hinge Assembly
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Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
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LIGHT SWITCH
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Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Dual Inlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X10051
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Dual Inlet Water Valve
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Part #WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$267.74
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Ice Maker
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Part #WR30X10093
This ice maker assembly is used to make ice in your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold into the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the limit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. This kit includes the fill cup, 4-pin wire harness adapter, and a tube. Disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
Hinge Cam Riser – Part Number: WR02X10140
$20.24
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Hinge Cam Riser
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Part #WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X489
$85.95
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Defrost Timer
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Part #WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X10010
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Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
Part #WR72X10010
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one side, or it will not stay in place at all. The drawer slide rail is for the left side of the drawer only, so be sure to check that you are replacing the correct drawer rail. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Defrost Heater with Thermostat – Part Number: WR51X442
$160.86
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Defrost Heater with Thermostat
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Part #WR51X442
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature. Used with side by side models.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
No Longer Available
Run Capacitor
Part #WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the original, but should function the same.
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
$23.24
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Light Socket
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Part #WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty socket. It is important to determine if the light bulb is simply burned out, or if the socket is causing the issue. Be sure to disconnect your refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. This socket is black in color and is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

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Cracked housing on the vaave
288 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
  • anthony from thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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No power to the fan and compressor
222 of 302 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
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Defroster failure
128 of 145 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from North Attleboro, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Fridge was not really cold. Fan was working at back of freezer. Romoved the drawers and back panel of freezer compartment. Melted ice with a blow dryer and collected water with a towel so that it would not overflow the drip pan. Installed the new defroster units with 4 screws and the easy plug in wiring harness. Bingo! Defrost timer was probably OK but new one is easy to do.

Fixed in one day vs waiting for service call & payng $$$.
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