Models > 36358042890

36358042890 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the 36358042890

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Manuals & Care Guides for 36358042890

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Door Closing Cam – Part Number: WR2X4901
Door Closing Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS297995
Manufacturer #: WR2X4901
This single door closure cam is mounted on the door, not the hinge.
$28.96
  Special Order
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
Bottom Hinge Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS290199
Manufacturer #: WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
$74.45
  Special Order
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$5.85
  Special Order
Light Switch – Part Number: WR23X10725
Light Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
$21.88
  Special Order
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
Replacement icemaker kit - electronic. This kit includes a 4 pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connector, tube and fill cup.
$275.72
  Special Order
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X207
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306911
Manufacturer #: WR72X207
This drawer track supports the left hand side of the sliding drawer.
$75.28
  Special Order
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X206
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306910
Manufacturer #: WR72X206
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
$78.19
  Special Order
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X208
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS306912
Manufacturer #: WR72X208
This is a replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The slide rails allow the crisper pans to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing, the crisper pan will not ...
  No Longer Available
Defrost Heater with Thermostat – Part Number: WR51X442
Defrost Heater with Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS303933
Manufacturer #: WR51X442
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature. Us...
$161.83
  Special Order
Freezer Shelf Support – Part Number: WR02X11561
Freezer Shelf Support
PartSelect #: PS963366
Manufacturer #: WR02X11561
Sold Individually.
$8.42
  Special Order
Relay PTCR - 3 Wire – Part Number: WR07X10055
Relay PTCR - 3 Wire
PartSelect #: PS963826
Manufacturer #: WR07X10055
Also known as the Start Relay. The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
$33.96
  Special Order
Package of 12 Screws – Part Number: WZ4X244D
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for 36358042890

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Common Symptoms of the 36358042890

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Ice maker not making ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Leaking
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Door Sweating
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Clicking sound
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Will Not Start
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Fridge runs too long
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Frost buildup
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Freezer too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Door would not automatically close.
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.

One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.

Purchased part 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.

Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.

1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.

2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.

3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.

4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.

5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover

6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.

7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.

8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.

9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.

10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).

11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.

12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.

13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.

14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.

15 Close the door.
Parts Used:
Door Closing Cam
  • Gary from North eastham, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
175 of 189 people found this instruction helpful.
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Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
Parts Used:
Ice Maker
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
89 of 122 people found this instruction helpful.
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