This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
If your gas burner isn’t heating evenly or looks worn out, this replacement burner head might be just what you need. It’s about 3.5 inches wide, made of sturdy metal with a silver finish, and rated at...
Need a solution for a jittery drawer in your General Electric Range/Stove/Oven? The Genuine Replacement Drawer Glide is the answer. It keeps your broil or storage drawer sliding smoothly on your range...
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
This genuine small burner is an original replacement part from GE, designed for use with a wide range of gas ranges. Positioned between the rangetop and bracket assembly and the burner cap, it plays a...
This Genuine OEM GE Electrode Clip is a precision-engineered component designed for use across a wide range of gas ranges. Constructed from durable metal, the clip plays a critical role in securing th...
Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.
While i was inserting the new lp,gas orriface to the right rear burner tube I dropped the oriface.Without looking i popped the top of the burner unit, like most older type stoves, and thats when i ran into my problem. I realized the burner tube assemblies are attached by 3 screws to the top cover.Not attached to the cabinet as the older models, Basically cracked both front aluminum tubes trying to retrieve the dropped oriface. so i had to replace the burner tube units, which involved removing 3 screws, and loosing up and removal of the nut to the main gas tube. extremely easy repair, next time i`ll try to remember look before i leap,total time to (r+r)burner tubes about 20 minutes.Parts select pulled me out of the fire on this one, great staff and service, with quick delivery.
Here's how I fixed my problem. I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.
