The flat-style oven igniter lights the gas burner in your oven. It includes a mounting bracket, two ceramic wire connectors, and measures 3-3/4 inches long. The plug may need to be spliced to the rang...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
This single chrome oven rack provides a reliable flat cooking surface for your cookware inside of the oven cavity. The oven rack is made of metal and measures approximately 24” wide by 17 1/2” deep. T...
This Genuine OEM GE Electrode Clip is a precision-engineered component designed for use across a wide range of gas ranges. Constructed from durable metal, the clip plays a critical role in securing th...
The igniter does not come with wire nuts. *** Please NOTE: The igniter connector may need to be cut off and wires spliced to the range wiring with the porcelain wire nuts.
This orifice spud helps convert the right rear burner of compatible GE stoves from natural gas to liquid propane. It ensures proper gas flow and efficient burner performance. Installation should be do...
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new igniter in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove. 2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward. 3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the track to release. 4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel. 5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang. 6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part. 7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end. 8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector. 9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor. 10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw. 11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned. 12. Replaced the door. 13. Replaced the oven drawer.
This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
