This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
This single chrome oven rack provides a reliable flat cooking surface for your cookware inside of the oven cavity. The oven rack is made of metal and measures approximately 24” wide by 17 1/2” deep. T...
If your gas burner isn’t heating evenly or looks worn out, this replacement burner head might be just what you need. It’s about 3.5 inches wide, made of sturdy metal with a silver finish, and rated at...
Need a solution for a jittery drawer in your General Electric Range/Stove/Oven? The Genuine Replacement Drawer Glide is the answer. It keeps your broil or storage drawer sliding smoothly on your range...
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
This genuine small burner is an original replacement part from GE, designed for use with a wide range of gas ranges. Positioned between the rangetop and bracket assembly and the burner cap, it plays a...
This double burner pan works with your range to catch grease and debris during the cooking process. It is designed to fit under a small and large burner. Your range will have two double burner pans, o...
First of all disconnect the power cord and then remove the top section of the oven which consisted of 2 small allen screws located in the front bottom corners [ left and right ] on the frontside. On the backside there was 2 phillip screws on top corners [ left and right ]. Also there was 2 bolthead screws that I use my small socket set or you can use a small ajustable wrench. Once all these were removed it rolled forward right off. The control board was located in the center of the panel. Made sure the part matched up and it did, removed 4 small corner phillip screws and 4 or 5 removable plug in wire connectors which were easily identified. Put everything back together, plug power cord back in and the electronic display came on. Everything worked on the oven. done deal.
Removing all the shattered glass was endless it seemed. hovever the repair was very easy. Even for a very busy stay at home mom with limited handy man skills.I did it and it only took about 15 to 20 mins. once i got all the glass out of the way.I untightened the 4 sm.bolts under the door just enough to fit the glass in and when in place retightened the bolts and done !!
First I needed the correct model number & the correct part numbers for the two front tube assemblies. After that well.... I removed everything on top of the stove. I then proceded to remove all the torx screws for each orifice holder bracket & igniter wires so i could raise the top lid ( without this step you will wind up replacing more than one tube assembly!) Be careful when removing color coded wires so that they work with the correct burner. Remove compression nut to burner valve... i used a crowfoot. remove orifice holder from bracket & install new holder ( onto bracket). Install orifice assembly to burner valve ( do not over tighten), re-install wires to igniters, lower lid, and re-install torx screws. The correct parts require little effort to align. Last of all, test burners and check for leaks. Thanks for reading, I will continue to learn from my mistakes!
