This part is attached to the compressor. It helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
This is a switch for your refrigerator, but you may also know it as a door switch or a plunger light switch. This part turns your appliance light on and off as the door is opened and closed. If your c...
This part is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation to keep the cooling coils from frosting over. The thermostat must be rep...
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Evans
April 5, 2023
Freezer only works in quick freeze mode and stops working after 24 hours.
For model number 25321041100
Hi Evans, thank you for reaching out. Your freezer may be not freezing due to a faulty defrost timer. We recommend checking to defrost the thermostat first and then replacing defrost timer, part number PS12585793. We hope this solves your issue!
This freezer has many screws that hold the cover on the back of the door and assist clamping the edge of the gasket in place. Be sure to just loosen the screws 3/4 the way out, use a flat head screw driver to pry the cover from the door in case over time it is stuck to the door. The new gasket will come in a creative box trying not to kink the gasket itself, but there will be some distortion of the gasket when you get it. Put it in the sun or in hot water. I put it in my dryer for 10 minutes. Remove the old gasket, and start at the top of the door to replace the gasket. TIPS: If the screws are backed out enough, there should not be any problem sliding the back part of the gasket under the cover. When on the sides, do not pull the gasket down to make it easier to slide the gasket underneath the cover. This will distort and lengthen the gasket so it will not fit and thin it out so it will not function well. Once the gasket is in place, tighten the screws being sure to feel along the outside edge of the gasket for any bulging that would indicate that portion of the gasket is NOT under the cover properly.
After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I then turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.
After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.
I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.
The repair was as easy as removing three phillip head screws for each slide rail and removing and replacing the broken slide rail. However, over the years, the walls of the freezer had bowed making the drawer a bit short to ride on the new rails -- causing the drawer to fall off the slide rails since the span between each rail was now wider than the basket. To remedy this problem. I used washers and placed them on the back side of each rail where the screws are located . This was the perfect solution compensating for the extra width resulting from the slightly bowed walls in the freezer. This solution allowed the basket to fit on each slide rail without falling off .