24JN-7CKXW (14X) Maytag Range - Overview
Sections of the 24JN-7CKXW
[Viewing 1 of 1]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
PartSelect #: PS1573892
Manufacturer #: 12400035
The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4 inches. This kit comes with all of the pieces you need to replace longer ceramic igniters, though this kit can also repl...
$73.26
In Stock
Oven Door Spring
PartSelect #: PS11744749
Manufacturer #: WP7803P058-60
This oven door spring is six inches long, and is made of metal.
$22.95
In Stock
Drip Pans - Kit of 4
PartSelect #: PS2011170
Manufacturer #: 1430283
Tired of messy burners? This set of four chrome drip pans keeps your cooktop clean by catching spills and splatters. Each pan fits snugly around the burner and is easy to swap out. A quick way to refr...
$96.38
Special Order
GRATE BURNER
PartSelect #: PS12731250
Manufacturer #: W11400301
This square burner grate has sides measuring approximately nine inches. It is all black in color.
$140.18
Special Order
Hinge - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS1603106
Manufacturer #: 3418A029-34
The hinges allow the door to swing up and down. The hinges must be properly adjusted in order for the door to close properly.
No Longer Available
Hinge - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS1603107
Manufacturer #: 3418A030-34
The hinges allow the door to swing up and down. The hinges must be properly adjusted in order for the door to close properly.
No Longer Available
Safety Valve
PartSelect #: PS2090036
Manufacturer #: 7501P095-60
This safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for 24JN-7CKXW
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Common Symptoms of the 24JN-7CKXW
[Viewing 8 of 8]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
Parts Used:
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James from Ferndale, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Oven would'nt light
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
Parts Used:
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Charles from Charlestown, RI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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oven failed to light
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
Parts Used:
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Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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