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11063022100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11063022100
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Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat Dryer Cycling Thermostat
  • Tom from High Point, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
745 of 792 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
675 of 739 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • Alan from Brooksville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
519 of 617 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer not heating
Our dryer is 8 years old and had been slowly taking longer and longer to dry clothes, to the point that I was ready to purchase a new one. When the dryer stopped heating completely, I removed the bottom panel and found that the heating element was no longer working. I checked online and found this website. The top two recommended fixes for this issue was to replace the heating element and/or thermal cut-off kit (two sensors). I chose to purchase both, delivered to me very quickly (two days). I figured for $80 you can't go wrong. Here's the procedure I followed:

On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.

(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!

Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Wesley from Boyds, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
295 of 333 people found this instruction helpful.
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felt strip came off lint screen
ordered new lint screen, removed old screen, inserted new screen.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • JEFFREY from FALL RIVER, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
223 of 279 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door wouldn't latch.
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Melody from North Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
204 of 285 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broke start switch while moving
Turned off the power.Pulled the dryer out, removed the screws from the control cover panel, unplugged the switch, pressed the release clip the did the opposite to install new switch. Replaced the back panel, put the nob on and it looks as good as new.Turned on the power.
Parts Used:
Push-To-Start Switch
  • Dennis from Port Orchard, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
109 of 118 people found this instruction helpful.
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very loud squeeling sound
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to remove and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
Parts Used:
Dryer Repair Kit
  • jason from HOLDEN, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
106 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer door would not stay shut
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Pam from Woodbridge, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
103 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
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door switch actuator spring broken
-unplugged appliance
-removed lint trap
-removed 2 lint trap shute screws with phillips screwdriver
-popped open top of appliance with standard screwdriver by applying pressure at each front corner so that it could be tilted up to access actuator switch on right side of door
-removed 2 actuator switch screws, located on upper right side of laundry door, with phillips screwdriver (screws are accessed from outside of door frame not through appliance top).
-discarded broken actuator spring (accessed from open appliance top)
-replaced new actuator spring
-replaced 2 actuator switch screws
-closed top
-replaced 2 lint trap shute screws
-replaced lint trap
-plugged in appliance
-tested for operation
-kissed by happy wife
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Switch Actuator
  • Paul from Vero Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
92 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeaky Dryer Noise
I purchased the dryer repair kit with the drum belt, wheels and idler pulley. I watched the instructional videos online and it seemed fairly straight forward. Breaking down the dryer and replacing the pulleys was easy enough. My problem began when I tried to feed the drum belt around the idler pulley. After finishing the job, the dryer would not turn and the sensor light stayed on. I thought something else was broken with the dryer and spent hours trouble shooting other problems that I was having. Finally I figured out that the drum belt was not installed correctly around the idler pulley. However, I could not get it properly installed from the front of the machine so I tried from the rear still with no avail. I finally had to fish the old belt out of the garbage can that I had thrown away earlier. I lined up the old belt with the new one in the kit and discovered that the new belt was much smaller, so I put the old one back on the drum. Here's the lesson I learned...make sure the belts are the same size before attempting to install. The old idler was responsible for the squeaking and that stopped but I am still using the same old drum belt. Hope it lasts.
Parts Used:
Dryer Repair Kit
  • Eddie from PELZER, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
84 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer wouldn't dry
un pluged it then removed the hose took the back off took out the 2 screws out of each part replace it with the new parts , then pluged it back to make sure it would work and it did the very first time. i'm 1 happy roper owner.
Parts Used:
Dryer Disposable Thermal Fuse Door Catch Kit
  • JEFFERY from ABINGDON, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
110 of 191 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very Loud Squeaking Noise
1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley
  • GREGORY from Wilsonville, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
78 of 99 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door won't latch
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Jill from bellevue, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
95 of 158 people found this instruction helpful.
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broken belt
First I removed back and top of dryer, then the support braces holding the drum, after that I took the drum out and the blower covers and cleaned the whole dryer of lint and other debris. Installed the new belt and then reassembled the dryer.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Larry from exeter, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
66 of 78 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 11063022100
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