Models > 1105905850

1105905850 Kenmore Washer - Overview

Sections of the 1105905850

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(28)
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$14.96
  In Stock
Centerpost Gasket – Part Number: W10814296
Centerpost Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11723081
Manufacturer #: W10814296
Also known as Main Outer Tub Seal. This part helps to prevent leaking from the bottom of the tub.
$7.34
  In Stock
Cover Screw – Part Number: WP308685
Cover Screw
PartSelect #: PS11740701
Manufacturer #: WP308685
Sold individually.
$10.14
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11743008
Manufacturer #: WP596669
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
$14.15
  In Stock
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8 – Part Number: WP90767
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$6.91
  In Stock
Washer Transmission Stem Seal – Part Number: WP8577376
Washer Transmission Stem Seal
PartSelect #: PS11746747
Manufacturer #: WP8577376
Sold individually.
$14.15
  In Stock
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw – Part Number: WPW10119828
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11748588
Manufacturer #: WPW10119828
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$11.68
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP356138
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11741854
Manufacturer #: WP356138
This clamp helps to prevent leaking by holding the end of water hose in place.
$13.81
  In Stock
Spanner Nut – Part Number: WP21366
Spanner Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738884
Manufacturer #: WP21366
Right hand threaded nut holds the tub in place in direct drive, top loading washing machines. To remove the spanner nut you will need a spanner wrench.
$13.81
  In Stock
Support Roller Clip – Part Number: WP90296
Support Roller Clip
PartSelect #: PS11746832
Manufacturer #: WP90296
Sold Individually.
$6.83
  In Stock
Water Inlet Hose Washer – Part Number: WP16123
Water Inlet Hose Washer
PartSelect #: PS11738697
Manufacturer #: WP16123
Sold Individually. Order quantity needed.
$10.14
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for 1105905850

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Common Symptoms of the 1105905850

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Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Lid or door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
leaking from tub
First I turned off the water and unplugged the washer from the outlet. I took the two screws off the console and turned it up to undo the clips that hold the cabinet to the back. I took out the 2 phillips screws at the top corners of the back. I was then able to pull cabinet off and not have to remove the console, but carefully slid it to the side, as ther wires were still attached.
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
Parts Used:
Centerpost Gasket
  • Debra from Milton - Freewater, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
37 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
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Light Bulb burned out
Removed the two screws that hold the back glass in place. Rotated old bulb out of it's lamp fixture and replaced it with the new bulb. Replaced glass and reinstalled the screws.
The hardest part was finding the bulb ... a very unique 18W flourescent. I wasted a couple of hours trying to locate it locally at my regular suppliers. The order at PatsSelect was easy and direct and the bulb was on my doorstep 3 days later .. an exact fit. Thanks guys.
Parts Used:
Light Blub - Fluorescent - 18 Watt
  • Jeffrey from Marietta, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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broken clip on top panel hold down
pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.
Parts Used:
Front Top Lock
  • Mark from Huntington Station, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
15 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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