110280 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

FOLLOWED VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS, UNPLUGGED AND REMOVED WATER LINES AND DRAIN, REMOVED HARNESS COVER PLATE. MOUNT SCREWS AND TOP, UNHOOKED SUSPENSION RODS(FOUND THEY HAD LEFT OUT TOP SPRINGS FROM TUB TO SUSPENSION RODS WHEN MANUFACTURED) PUT TOP BACK ON WITH ONE SCREW, PUT ON SIDE, REMOVED AND REPLACED SUSPENSION RODS, HOOKED THEM TO SIDE CAB ... Read more INET, SAT UNIT BACK UP, INSTALLED NEW PLASTIC CUPS AND TOP SPRINGS(HAVE TO ORDER SEPERATE) INSTALLED RODS IN LOCKING CAPS, PUT TOP BACK ON, PUT HARNESS COVER PLATE AND MOUNTING SCREWS IN, HOOKED UP TO WATER, AND DRAIN, LEVELED UNIT, PLUGGED IN AND WASHED CLOTHES, NO PROBLEMS, WORKS GREAT.

Remove top of washer 5min R&R cable 20 min total time 25 min.

Google seach and search on Parts Select. Easy repair

This is the second time that I had to replace this pump. The plastic pumps do not handle pocket change very well.Unplug machine,disconnect water lines and discharge flex hose.Tip machine over to front side to gain access to pump.Remove back panel of washer(8 screws). Remove the three screws and hose clamps.Unplug power to pump. Look for c ... Read more oins in pump and in bottom of washer tub.Remove coins if you can.Install new pump and replace back panel.Tip machine back up right.To make sure that I had removed all coins I had to remove stainless steel tub.Use putty knife to release clips that hold the top of washer.These are about 6" in from both sides of front .Push in and lift top away and back.Remove plastic around out side of basket.It just snaps off. Pry off center cap in bottom of basket. Remove nut with socket wrench.It might be pretty snug.Lift out basket. This might be snug also but it will come out.Now you have access to whatever may be entering your pump. I found a quarter and a penny . Remove plastic cover at bottom of tub (2 screws). This is where I found the penny.Good time to clean washer is now. Mine was really scuzzy.Put everything back together and you are good to go.Make sure to check pockets for that loose change,so you don't have to do this a second time.

Turned off cold water , in plugged the washer, disconnected the HOT and COLD supply to the washer. Removed the screws holding the panel to the upper galf of the back of the washer, in plugged the cold water solenoid valve, removed the two screws holding the cold water valve in place pulled up on the valve to remove it, incereted the new ... Read more valve in it's place, replaced the hold down screws replaced the electrical plugs, replaced the upprr aluminum covering the top half or the back of the washer, reconnected the water supply lines and turned the water on. check for leaks. Wife said it worked like new.

Followed the directions given in other client reviews. It was easy and works perfectly now.

remove back cover plate to access pump replacement of the pump is rather simple the time consumption was because when I examined the pump I found a nickel which wiped out the impeller on the pump after further examination I found other small change in the suction side of the pump unit As a result of this I had to remove the barrel to fur ... Read more ther clean the reservoir to avoid damaging the new pump.I have repsaired this washer no less than six times over the years.This is a very poorly designed unit for the cost Thank you for the rapid delivery of the part.This wont be the last time I deal your on line service was excellent.Luckily my mechanical experience saved me a ton of money.

Went on u tube saw different video to How disassemble the top to have access to the rod. Changing one by one those rod I was in need of my wife to hold the cover while I was changing the rod.... order for suspension rod kit. Reassemble the top by sliding the cover and to snap. Screw back the panel. And it solve the problem. My wife was r ... Read more eally happy so me. It can be done by anybody but first go on the internet to get a idea.

Removed center cap, loosened center nut, pry lightly up on center plate and tap center nut. Center plate comes loose, remove nut, remove center plate. Pry lock clip out and remove, remove screw with electric impact (screw drive will work, but slower), remove drive hub. Install new drive hub (be sure to check screw hole alignment), install ... Read more and tighten screws (be sure to follow a skip pattern and bring it down even), install lock clip, install center plate, install and tighten nut, replace center cap. Done!

3rd time replacing this part. The plastic grooves against the metal get wore down. Only 20$ to repair ! Take off the 3/8 bolt - center pops out. Remove screws pop out old piece and tighten new piece each side evenly.

This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get ... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.

Changing the gear case is a basic R and R operation since the gear case is a complete assembly riveted together. It is a bit challenging though getting to it because you have to totally disassemble the entire washer nearly every nut, bolt and screw. Fortunately the washer is fairly easy to work on and I am very mechanically inclined, but ... Read more I did cheat a bit by watching some U-tube videos first. I couldn't find the same exact model washer as mine on U-tube but there were enough similar units to obtain the basic procedure. A thing I do when disassembling things is to take pictures of the way it's put together before removing stuff. It goes without saying that you first have to disconnect the power, the water hoses and it helps to get the washer out away from the wall so you can work around it. You have to remove the top, back panels, and the inner and outer tubs first. After removing the inner and outer tubs I turned the washer upside down in order to gain access to the gear case so I wouldn't have to stand on my head or lay down. Remove everything attached to the gear case (take picture) and use a strap wrench (or a strong friend) to hold the large pulley while removing the retaining nut. To remove the condenser (large round thing in black plastic retainer) rotate it counter clockwise and lift out, it doesn't snap out. I was very happy to see that the new gear case came with the shaft seal already installed so with a small amount of liquid dish soap around the outside of the rubber it allowed a nice slip fit back into the outer tub. All the parts that were removed pretty much will only fit one way so you don't have to worry too much about how everything goes back together. After reassembly and hooking up the washer again be sure to perform the calibration procedure before you turn on the water. Instructions came in the box with the gear case. Here is a side bar: I am 76, my grandson and I replaced the gear case in just a few hours, It's no big deal. Now for the interesting part, when I ordered the replacement gear case by the old part number I was told it had been superseded by a new number so when the new unit arrived I discovered that the shaft and seal looked different so hopefully the water leaking into bearing won't happen again. I was going to drill the old gear case apart and replace the bad bearing so I am glad I didn't because the shaft and seal would continue to leak and ruin the bearing again so don't try that. One thing I would like to mention about this company from which I ordered the part was the amazing delivery, only 36 hours. I ordered the part Sunday evening late and Tuesday morning early it arrived. Wow, blew me away, also I live in California and apparently the company is in Nova Scotia, no sales tax, Woo Hoo.

Remove small screws on back of top on both sides, slide top forward. No need to remove water hoses. Lift top up to expose switch safety mechanism (black plastic) on front underside of top. Undo screws holding switch mechanism. remove plate cover from back of top and unplug wiring harness. Thread new wireing harness and plug through hole ... Read more in top and plug in to plug receptor.

Removed back cover plate.
Replaced wiring harness starting at control unit and working down to the motor. Replaced sensor on motor.
Removed basket, checked for obstructions.
Reassembled machine, conducted diagnostic testing.

1. Unplug washer 2. Remove 3 plates off of the control box that attaches to the body of the washer 3. Using a 2 inch putty knife locate spring clips and push in to release 4. Lift top and secure 5. Lift up suspension rod and pop off the ball socket it sits in, then reach down and locate the clip of the suspension rod and push the tabs in. ... Read more It should just fall out. 6 make sure you clean the top well before reinstalling the new rod. 7. To install new suspension rod secure the top of the rod first then lift the drum and click in the bottom of the suspension rod. I recommend once you do the first rod then go to the back right corner and install that rod next. You will notice that their will be power and water lines on a clip that attaches to the rod. Disconnect from the rod and replace the rod. If you do this rod last the drum will have a lot of tension from the new springs and it will be difficult to install.