110280 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

A detailed Service Technician Service Manual is hidden inside the machine on the front panel. It is hidden by the bleach dispenser input. It gives a list of fault codes and instructions for calibration after repair, resetting fault codes, and a manual test mode for stepping the machine through each mode on command. The Tachometer faile ... Read more d which would not let the machine come up to maximum spin speed. The tachometer is part of the solenoid actuator that shifts the transmission. It is not specifically called out in the manual. Any failure causes the lid lock light to blink which gives the appearance of a lid lock failure

Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.

Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover ... Read more over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.

At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).

Re-assemble using new pump.

Note:
Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.

Watched a video on the internet.

Removed the dial control top covering by unscrewing the 3 screws in the back of the cover. Once the cover was off, the control module was exposed and all I had to do was:

1. Disconnect the wires that were plugged into the control module

2. Remove the old module. There was 1 screw holding it in place.

3. ... Read more Replace with the new module. Put back the screw back.

4. Reconnect the wires. There was about a 8 different plugs that needed to reconnected. So I took a few pictures of how the wires were connected/plugged in, with my compact camera (just in case I forgot where each went). I didn't need to use the pictures, but it was just a safety net in case I forgot where each went.

The instructions that came with the part were worthless. Essentially, unplug, put in new part, plug it back in. I spent a considerable amount of time on the internet and finally found a video showing how to open the top. Unlike other models, it is held down by clamps in the back rather than clips in the front. Once finding this inform ... Read more ation the installation was simple. Remove the clamps and the back of the console, slide the top forward and lift, remove and replace the lock and reassemble. You don't even have to remove the hoses.

Well, first investigated and found loose nut on drive clutch. First take off the two screws with nut drive then cover off using a screwdriver blade to snap off the cover. Then socket ratchet to take off the nut on drive clutch. take off belt by slowly rotating the drive gear. two screws that hold the electronics to the upper drive clutch ... Read more and put aside, so you can snap off the cover for drive clutch on upper part with screwdriver and off the parts come and install whole unit back as took it apart. Line up the new upper clutch so that is position as was before. (Using parts diagram helps a lot as www. partsselect.com has for you or Maytag.com.) Then put the electronic part board back on and the gear and nut. Make sure it is tight by several attempts to make sure it's snugged up good and then slowly roll belt back on the pulley and motor drive. Put your cover guard back on with two screws and done.

The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring cla ... Read more mps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.

I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.

I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.

Replaced 1 of 4 of the suspension bushing. Works great.

ordered hub and it shipped quickly. I was able to put the hub in place and screw the screws in. you want to tighten them down slowly and go around to each screw tightening a little at a time so you don't break the hub. as you tighten the screws down the hub slides down flush. its impossible to just push the hub on with your hand. Buttoned ... Read more it back up and got caught up on laundry. good day when the washer is fixed.

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

Someone on Google suggested holding the stop button and the start button at the same time for 60 seconds as a way of by passing the problem. This did work but soon became a pain each time we used the washer.Installing the new part was super easy. Three screws hold the cover on, one screw holds the part in place and all the plug- ins are m ... Read more arked by color as to where they go. Pretty hard to mess it up.I did take a few digital pictures before just in case.

Removed a cap in the center of the tub basket which has a bolt that needs removed I believe it's a 9/16 after I removed the bolt I then removed the center of the bottom of the basket assembly which then allowed me to get to the basket hub that needed replaced it was a little dirty and I couldn't get it out so I sprayed a little penitratin ... Read more g oil on it let it sit a little then I was able to remove the hub and install the new one then I put it all back together and the washer is working great

What a mess!
Unplug the unit, disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines. Remove the drain hose from the wall and slide the unit away from the wall.
It's easier if you lay the unit on it's side, but not required.
Using the flat blade screwdriver, or a 1/4" nut driver, remove the 8 bolts that hold the back cover and lay ... Read more that aside.
Locate the leaky pump. There are 2. One is the supply pump. One is the waste drain pump and they are not interchangeable.
Using the pliers, slide the spring clamps off of the 2 hoses connected to the pump.
Using a phillips-head screw driver, remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the unit.
Hinge open the cover to the electrical supply for the pump and pull out the connector. It only goes on one way, so reassembly is not an issue.
Throw pump across the street.
Take new pump and reverse instructions above.

first flipped washeron its front, took water pump off, put new water pump on and flipped it back upright.
then took basket out of washer to get remaining change out of washer. fairly simple the third time it has to be done,
I also put two short screws into the suction screen of the pump so that no change can reach the pump anym ... Read more ore

The repair went very easily. Maytag/Whirlpool really makes these types of repairs simple, just need basic tools. If you leave the wiring harness on the old inlet valve and just remove the connectors from the control unit, you can reference it when plugging in the new harness after the new inlet valve is installed. Two screws and three ... Read more hose clamps later (not counting the screws on the back of the washer) and the old inlet was out, the new one in.