Are you dealing with a faulty washplate in your washing machine? Meet the Whirlpool Washer Washplate Screw, your personal helper for securing loose or broken washplates. This genuine OEM part is highl...
$10.09
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If your washer isn’t spinning, agitating, or cleaning clothes like it used to, the gearcase might be the issue. This part powers the agitator and spin basket, helping your machine run smoothly. It fit...
$317.25
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This clutch slider kit is part of the transmission system in select washing machines, helping control the movement and speed of the agitator during wash and spin cycles. The kit includes a clutch band...
$58.55
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This clutch assembly is designed for use in top-load washing machines, where it plays a crucial role in engaging the transmission during both the agitation and spinning cycles. If your washer is exper...
$135.91
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These rods help keep your washer drum steady during cycles, so it doesn’t shake or bang around. If your washer is noisy or feels unstable, the suspension rods might be worn out. This kit includes all ...
$145.22
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This small but important washer helps your washing machine run smoothly. It sits between the agitator or impeller and the transmission, reducing friction and keeping everything moving properly. If you...
$17.70
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Facing trouble with your Whirlpool washing machine? Your solution could be our genuine Whirlpool Spanner Nut. This small yet crucial component can help restore your appliance to its original working c...
$34.19
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This part helps your washer spin properly so your clothes come out clean and not soaking wet. It works with the motor to turn the drum and keep things running smoothly. If your washer isn’t spinning o...
$259.04
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Questions And Answers for 11026134610
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Tom
August 24, 2021
What keeps it from fulling draining during spin cycle? Why does "drn" error message appear when both hose from washer and standpipe/drain to street are clear?
For model number 11026134610
Hello Tom, Thank you for the question. These issue indicate your washer isn't draining properly. We suggest checking the Drain Pump to make sure it is clear and there are no blockage. There are also Drain Hoses from the tub to pump you can check. If everything is clear, you may have a a defective Drain Pump, PartSelect Number PS11738156. We hope this helps!
Washer will not fill. Mixing valve on the fill valve is not getting power but there is power to the hot and cold solenoids. What would prevent just the mixing valve solenoid from powering?
For model number 11026134610
Hi Eric,
Thank you for your question. If the mixing part of the water inlet valve is not working, then a component inside has malfunctioned and the water inlet valve will need to be replaced. The part number listed under your model number for the water inlet valve is PS12349461. If you would like to place an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it. Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
