This coupling kit is located between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This pump is intended for use with washing machines that do not have belts. This drain pump has two ports for water to pass through: a large one, and a smaller one.
The agitator kit is most commonly used if the top part of the agitator is not moving correctly but the bottom is. This kit now includes all pieces shown in photo plus the thrust spacer, inner cap seal...
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
The valve body of this part could be blue or green in color. There are two ports for water to enter, and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ...
This agitator repair kit comes with a long cam, a thrust spacer and four dogs ears (agitator cogs). This repair kit is used to move the upper agitator and it connects the base of the agitator with th...
$46.22
In Stock
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The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
1. Unplug washer. 2. Remove screws at control panel end caps. 3. Flip control panel back to expose wiring. 4. Detach lid switch wiring harness from control panel. 5. Use screwdriver to pry the 2 brass clips holding the back panel of the washer to the front and sides piece. 6. Tilt the front/sides piece over to expose lid switch. 7. Use nutdriver to detach ground wire. 8. Use screwdriver to remove 2 screws holding lid switch in place. 9. Install new lid switch. Make sure wiring harness piece is facing the right direction. 10. Put washer back together in same order it was disassembled. Make sure front/sides piece connects to the clips at the bottom.
