Models > 10660933901

10660933901 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the 10660933901

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(27)
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$13.36
  In Stock
Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
Capacitor
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(23)
PartSelect #: PS11757023
Manufacturer #: WPW10662129
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
$100.94
  In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
Touch-Up Paint - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$9.68
  In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
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(13)
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
$59.41
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
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(27)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$48.85
  In Stock
Crisper Pan – Part Number: WP2256704
Crisper Pan
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(6)
PartSelect #: PS11739936
Manufacturer #: WP2256704
This crisper pan, or drawer, is made for your refrigerator. The drawer has a controlled environment to ensure a proper humidity level to keep your produce fresh for longer. It is clear in color and ma...
$136.93
  In Stock
Hinge Bracket – Part Number: WP2183805
Hinge Bracket
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(3)
PartSelect #: PS11739061
Manufacturer #: WP2183805
This part is used to support the hinge.
$16.41
  In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WP2315539
Evaporator Fan Motor
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(22)
PartSelect #: PS11740359
Manufacturer #: WP2315539
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
$84.76
  In Stock
ICEMAKER – Part Number: W11510803
ICEMAKER
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS16660327
Manufacturer #: W11510803
This kit includes ice bucket and water valve and fits Whirlpool models manufactured from 1993 to present.
$162.16
  In Stock
Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay – Part Number: WPW10197428
Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay
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(10)
PartSelect #: PS11750123
Manufacturer #: WPW10197428
This compressor start relay is for refrigerators. The compressor start relay attaches to the compressor and helps start the compressor motor. Safely store any food that could deteriorate while the pow...
$97.36
  In Stock
Shelf Glass Insert – Part Number: WP2262441
Shelf Glass Insert
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS11739987
Manufacturer #: WP2262441
Glass shelf insert for a refrigerator bin.
$177.58
  In Stock
Ice Maker Water Fill Tube Kit – Part Number: WP2196157
Ice Maker Water Fill Tube Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11739222
Manufacturer #: WP2196157
This kit comes with a fill tube and a compression nut.
$12.93
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for 10660933901

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Common Symptoms of the 10660933901

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Fridge too warm
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Light not working
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer section too warm
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Leaking
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Ice maker not making ice
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Noisy
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Not dispensing water
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Door Sweating
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
Parts Used:
Capacitor
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
393 of 473 people found this instruction helpful.
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Evaporator Fan failure
The reason I repaired it myself was because the repairman that diagnosed the problem.didn't come back in two weeks. The evaporator fan sits behind a vented wall in the freezer and directs cold air into freezer and refrigerator.I removed the ice make assembly first and then the freezer wall held in place by two sheet metal nuts. Then removed wires from fan motor. Removed the fan blade from fan motor,which was press fitted on,then removed fan motor from bracket assembly(make sure and retain the two vibration rubber washers on back and front of motor. Reinstall new motor with vibration washers and press fan blade on new motor. Install in bracket assemble and reassemnble.
Parts Used:
Evaporator Fan Motor
  • William from Middletown, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
156 of 174 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Parts Used:
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
154 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
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