This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
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If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
I need to troubleshoot the defrost components. When it shuts down for defrost the heater is not coming on. I need to be able to force it into a defrost mode so i can perform these troubleshooting steps. How do i manually put this refrigerator into defrost mode. I don't believe this unit has a mechanical defrost timer
For model number 10651133210
Hello and thank you for writing.
Model With Temperature Dial Settings
Open the refrigerator-side door.
Locate the two thermostat dials. There is one for the refrigerator and one for the freezer. In Frigidaire side-by-side models having thermostat dials, they are typically located on the refrigerator side of the appliance along the top edge of the refrigerator.
Find the temperature dial corresponding to the freezer, which is labeled "Freezer."
Turn the freezer temperature dial to zero. This turns the compressor off and stops the appliance from cooling. The lights inside the appliance will remain on, as this doesn't cut off the power to the refrigerator.
Listen for a "click" as the defrost cycle begins. Allow the defrost cycle to run for approximately 30 minutes.
Reset the freezer temperature dial to your preferred setting to ensure the appliance begins cooling again.
Model With Electronic Panel Settings — Primary Method
Open the refrigerator-side door and find the temperature control panel. The exact location of the temperature control panel may depend on the Frigidaire model you own but look along the upper edge of the refrigerator side.
Locate the "Freezer-Fridge" "On/Off" button to the left of the freezer controls.
Press the "On/Off" button and hold it down firmly for three seconds. This action turns off the compressor. Pressing the button for less than three seconds will not cause the compressor to turn off to begin the defrost cycle.
Allow the defrost cycle to run for at least 30 minutes. In a similar manner, turn the defrost cycle off by pressing and holding the "On/Off" button for three seconds.
Model With Electronic Panel Settings — Alternate Method
Open the door on the fresh food side of the refrigerator.
Confirm that the fresh food light is in working order. The fresh food light must be working properly to initiate the defrost cycle manually using this method.
Locate the light switch for the fresh food light.
Depress and release the fresh food light switch five times in six seconds with your finger. Manually depressing and releasing the fresh food light switch in this manner initiates the defrost cycle in some Frigidaire side-by-side models with electronic temperature controls.
Let the defrost cycle run for 24 minutes.
Return to the cooling mode by pressing and releasing the fresh food light switch five times in six seconds.
We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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November 30, 2019
Freezer led lights will not come on
For model number 10651133210
Hi Johnny, you may need to replace the led lights. You would need two of them. The door switch could also be faulty. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty Bi-metal defrost thermostat PS11750673, you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Hello Brandon, thank you for your question, there are a few reasons your ice maker could stop making ice. First, we suggest checking the bail arm is the down position, then check your water line to see if its frozen. If there is ice buildup, unplug the refrigerator and use a turkey baster filled with warm water or a hair dryer to defrost the lines. We also suggest checking the water filter, part number: PS11701542 to see if it needs to be replaced. If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water filter or supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker, part number: PS11751133. Good luck with your repair!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Changing the KITCHENAID MOTOR ASSEMBLY TO THE ICE-MAKER was fairly straightforward. The hardest part was figuring out WHAT was broken and how to fix it. I was determined to save myself hundreds of dollars by doing it myself and avoiding a visit by the 'repairman'.
1.) Went to KitchenAid website to look at Parts List for my side-by-side refrigerator and ice maker assembly (a PDF file, easily downloadable) . The illustrations helped me visualize the assembly and various parts involved. 2.) Removed cover on front of ice maker. 3.) Removed hex-head screw on undersurface of icemaker on the right, which stablilizes a plastic cover for the electrical connector to the ice maker. Once this is off, it's then possible to slide the ice maker out. 4.) Slide the ice maker out from it's 'shelf' in the freezer. You won't be able to completely remove it until you disconnect the power supply. 5.) Disconnect the multi-pin power connector. (It's probably safest to unplug the refrigerator altogether before doing this, but I did not. No exposed metal wiring or connectors. No problems when I did it this way.) 6.) Once the ice-maker was out, remove the white cover from the motor assembly (on the left side of the unit). 7.) Remove the three screws from the black housing of the motor assembly. (This is where I discovered that the connector between the motor and drive-train was broken and needed to be replaced.) 8.) Remove and replace the drive system for the ice cube ejector. 9.) Then reverse the steps to reassemble.
This may seem a bit vague, but it's really quite straightforward once the ice maker is out of the freezer. The replacement motor assembly includes the motor, the motor housing, the drive-train, and the ice-cube ejector. Very easy to re-asemble.
Shopping for and ordering the part took some time since there are so many different after-market parts dealers. In all honesty, I'm glad I decided on PartSelect.com. They had a decent price, safe checkout, and timely delivery. All the essentials of a good online store.
Thanks, and good luck to the next guy who has to deal with a KitchenAid snafu.