Models > 1037297911

1037297911 Kenmore Range - Overview

Sections of the 1037297911

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$5.85
  Special Order
Ignitor Mounting Screw – Part Number: WB1X1293
Ignitor Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS234519
Manufacturer #: WB1X1293
Sold Individually.
$11.80
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Screw – Part Number: WB1X1130
Screw
PartSelect #: PS234427
Manufacturer #: WB1X1130
Sold Individually.
$8.25
  Special Order
Idler Bracket Spacer – Part Number: WPW10116756
Idler Bracket Spacer
PartSelect #: PS11748483
Manufacturer #: WPW10116756
$42.13
  Special Order
Inner Door Glass – Part Number: WB56X1907
Inner Door Glass
PartSelect #: PS252520
Manufacturer #: WB56X1907
  No Longer Available
Control Thermostat – Part Number: WB21X505
Control Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS235871
Manufacturer #: WB21X505
This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the oven cavity.
  No Longer Available
SCREW-VLVE – Part Number: WB1X1121
SCREW-VLVE
PartSelect #: PS234418
Manufacturer #: WB1X1121
  No Longer Available
IGNITER – Part Number: WB2X9005
IGNITER
PartSelect #: PS243322
Manufacturer #: WB2X9005
  No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB2X9011
DISCONTINUED
PartSelect #: PS243327
Manufacturer #: WB2X9011
  No Longer Available
Spark Module – Part Number: WB20X107
Spark Module
PartSelect #: PS235296
Manufacturer #: WB20X107
This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap
  No Longer Available
Igniter Bracket – Part Number: 311689
Igniter Bracket
PartSelect #: PS211887
Manufacturer #: 311689
$8.42
  Special Order
SCREW 8-32X1 – Part Number: 319447
SCREW 8-32X1
PartSelect #: PS212462
Manufacturer #: 319447
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for 1037297911

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Common Symptoms of the 1037297911

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Noisy
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Fixing
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Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by
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Fixing
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
idler pulley, idler bracket, idler spacer & Belt worn from age
First I unplugged the machine; an essential to avoiding getting shocked during this repair. This is a must and should not be overlooked it could cost you your life.

Removed two screws from lower area of front panel, pulled bottom of front panel toward yourself so as to swing out and up, continue to swing panel up to your self until it comes free from top clips.

Once free set gently on floor and remove door switch wires, noting which wire goes to which contact is not essential but could be more convenient when putting it all back together.

Remove door switch wire from clasp at top inside from panel, set front panel aside in safe place.

Now look under the two top front corners on the inside and you will see a screw in each corner; these screws must be removed in order to raise top panel.

This is kind of tedious because sometimes these screws are long and difficult to turn and space is limited and tight in getting rachet or nut driver on the head of these screws.

Be patient , because they will come out with a little work. To make this process a little easier you might do the following step first but you cannot do this little trick when putting it back together.

Once these screws are out raise top panel and lean back against wall; be careful because the two enamel surfaces are slick and if leaned too far back the top will want to slide out at the bottom from being on a lean.

Remove four screws from tumbler front, lift slightly so as to come off side clips then pull straight out. Remove door wire from clasp and drop wire gently back inside so as to let it fall to the bottom of the machine and away from the tumbler, which is to be removed next.

Once this is done the tumbler will go down in the front due to pressure from belt. The belt could have been removed from pulley right from the start to relieve this tension but I just do it this way.

Once tumbler sags or leans down in the front gently work the belt off of the back of the tumbler; there will still be a little pressure on the belt and gentle force may be required in sliding it toward the back and then off; once belt is off gently lift tumbler up and out and put in a safe place.

Once this is done you will be able to easily see everything in the bottom of the dryer; motor, gas valves, thermal switches, vent pipe and pulley, pulley bracket and belt which by this time has fallen to the bottom of dryer; gently remove belt from pulley and set aside in safe place.

Make sure it is out of reach of children or it will be played with or used as a hangmans noose; it is long an flexible and children just seem to love playing with it.

At this point you can either continue to work from the front of the machine or the back; I f you choose to work from the back then lower the top panel so as to allow it to just sit back down on the sides of the machine, pull the machine away from the wall and work from the back; because I am experienced at this I continue to work from the front.

If you choose to work from the back then while standing in the back of the machine look to lower right corner and you will see an access panel with four screws in it; remove these screws and the panel will come free giving you a clear view of the belt pulley.

From either back or front view you will see a spring attached to pulley bracket which can easily be removed when pulley bracket is in relaxed position; remove this spring and put in a safe place if you have plans of reusing it. I installed a new spring on this repair.

Once this spring has been removed then look directly beneath bracket at what is easily seen to be its pivot point and you will see a mounting screw. Remove this screw with a nut driver and the bracket will then come completely free; slide through access hole and come out with it.

Once it is out the white spacer is easily seen on bracket; look at the bracket side of the spacer and you will see a mounting screw; remove this screw and spacer will come off.

When installing new space
Parts Used:
Idler Bracket Spacer
  • Jeff from Gardendale, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W
  • Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
14 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W
  • Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
14 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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