57481DCWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Top panel was exactly what I needed and fit perfectly. To replace the top panel I first unplugged power. Removed control panel on top of machine. Removed front panel by placing a putty knife under front corners and pushing down on front panel. Removed two screws holding top panel to frame. Removed lid switch from top panel then removed lid from top panel. Lift up front of top panel and slide out of cabinet. Replaced new top panel in reverse order. The only thing I overlooked when ordering top panel was the plastic bumpers and rubber guides for the lid. Had to remove old parts from old top panel and use them. Overall job took about 45 minutes.

used pliers to grip and remove old button cover, used small screwdriver to push around the edge of new cover.

I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ring under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.

I removed the front cover and the top cover. Then I unplugged all the,wires and removed the hangers. Then removed tub and drum together out the front. After beating on the tub nut for 2 hours and drenching it in liquid wrench I realized that the,tub nut was not going to release. Yes I was turning it clockwise. I bring out my chisel and hammer. After removing the,center shaft I chisel the,tube inward till I could get to the nut. Then I chisel the,tub nut into 3 pieces. It then appeared why it wasn't coming loose,earlier the powders,had gotten below the nut and had it cemenred on. So those youtube videos,are helpful to an extent.

Took about 10 Minutes to have my washer up and running again. So easy, and I almost bought a new washer! Fixed it before my husband got home from work. Thank you PartSelect!

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!

The trick is to pull the front cover off by using a putty knife .slide it under the cover at both front corners.it will click on each corner.then pull front cover off .lift off the bottom catch hooks.look for the pump on the bottom right side.unplug the wite connector .take 2-5/16 bolts out holding the bracket.then grab a pliers .squeeze the hose clamps and pull the 2 hoses off.assemble new pump.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

Unscrew the 2 screws holding the drain hose clip to the machine - use bucket to get an excess water - remove bad drain line - I installed a new drain hose clip as well - make sure you put the clip on at the same position as the previous hose - push house firmly into opening and screw into machine - pretty easy repair - and I'm a novice

After unplugging the washer, I drained remaining water from washer tub using my Wet/Dry vac. Ordered new pump Sunday night from PartSelect, 'Standard delivery', part arrived Tuesday morning. Removal & installation took less than 20 minutes.

I dissasembled the machine and it took about 30 minutes. Orderd the parts recommended for noisy spinning. Reinstalled the new parts / changed all drum straps. Cleaned the drain drum and spin drum and after complete reassembly the washer is still noisy in agitation and spin cycle. The motor,transmission,counter weight,and drum look ok but there is still a reason why the machine is still noisy. Spent 120.00 dollars on parts so far but the drum and motor,transmission and counterweight are very expensive to replace. I am just going to keep using the machine until the washer fails to work anymore. I'm not going to put any more money in the washer. I will just buy a new one. It's not hard to dissasembled and reassemble the washer. I purchased the parts that was recommended to fix the washer but they were not the ones.The new parts did help like the tub seal but the bottom line is that the washer is still noisy. I watched your videos to work on the washer and there were no special instructions on disassembly and reassembly. Like always there must be more than i know to repair this washer. Thanks

The "service kit belt tool" was difficult to install, but I oonsider it a necessity. We tried installing the belt without the tool, and the belt kept snapping off the motor drive pulley. Using a cable tie to hold the belt to the drum pulley did not work. I used a length of heavy duty duct tape instead, and that worked OK. Unfortunately, the whining noise is still present with the new belt, so a GE service technician visit has been scheduled. Our belt replacement effort has not been totally wasted, unless the washer can't be repaired economically, since the old belt was fraying.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!

IT was so easy to replace the pump. I think the hardest part was trying to get the pliers to work right. All I had to do was unscrew two bolts, take off two pipes, get the new pump and replace the pipes and bolts. It was that easy.