57481DCWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 57481DCWW
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not agatating
13 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • pilar from covert, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.
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The zinc drive hub that connects the transmission to the tub had corroded away.
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Lapeer, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut an d hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.
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There was no fabric softener dispenser
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gigi from Monroeville, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The cap just removed by tapping a few times with a screw driver and hammer. then pulling upward it came off and I placed the new dispenser on. a couple minutes saved me from running up and down to add softener and it was very inexpensive.Thanks alot PARTS SELECT.
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Water leaks on floor in front of machine.
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from MESA, AZ
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.
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Clutch drive wore out and was making a clunking noise during operation.
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • howard from LA FAYETTE, GA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the front cover and the top cover. Then I unplugged all the,wires and removed the hangers. Then removed tub and drum together out the front. After beating on the tub nut for 2 hours and drenching it in liquid wrench I realized that the,tub nut was not going to release. Yes I was turning it clockwise. I bring out my chisel and ha mmer. After removing the,center shaft I chisel the,tube inward till I could get to the nut. Then I chisel the,tub nut into 3 pieces. It then appeared why it wasn't coming loose,earlier the powders,had gotten below the nut and had it cemenred on. So those youtube videos,are helpful to an extent.
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Agitator would not spin due to disintegrated hub.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Douglaston, NY
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.
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washer over flowed due to stuch valve
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from Sugarloaf Key, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
turned off the water and removed the hoses. Then removed the screws that held the back plate (that contains the knobs). removed the two screws holding the water valves and the hose to the washer. replaced the valve and then reassembled the rest.
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Water would not drain from tub.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Strafford, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I pulled off the front panel using a flat blade screwdriver to get it started. Then I could watch what happening as I tried starting the washer. When I put the dial to the Rinse Cycle and pulled the dial to start the washer, it would start to run for about 5 seconds and then stop. I tried this several times and the same thing h appened. I noticed the water pump located in the front lower right hand corner was not running. It would only hum. I drained the tub by holding the wash machine drain hose into a bucket. If I held the hose down toward the floor, the water would flow freely out of the hose and into my bucket. As the bucket filled up I just raised the hose, emptied the bucket and repeated the process until the tub was empty. Sure saved time over trying to empty the tub by bailing the water out with a can. After the tub was drained I removed the two hoses from the pump and then the two mounting bolts and the pump was out. I bench checked the pump with an electric cord and it stilled just hummed. I knew for sure then the pump was bad.

I then ordered a new pump from PartsSelect.com. I entered my wash machine model number and PartsSelect gave me a picture of the replacement pump. I was a little worried that it did not look the same as my old pump but I ordered it any how. The night I got the pump I installed it in about 30 minutes. No problems, it just worked like a charm. Thank you PartsSelect.com I will definitely use you for all my appliance repairs in the future. I know there will be more.
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Hose would not seal at rear of washer.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles Wayne from Forest Hill, WV
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the lea k and the hose seems to be working fine now.
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Water was leaking from machine.
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RUPESH from BELLFLOWER, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pu mp on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------
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Washer cycles quit working. Control Asm failed.
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alex from Riverview, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unpluged power cord from power source.
2. Removed 4 knobs from front of control panel.
3. Removed 4 screws from top of control panel.
4. Laid control panel over on closed washer lid.
5. Removed wiring harness from control asm which is attached to back of control panel face plate.
6. Removed 5 screws that attac hes control asy to back of control panel face plate.
7. Removed old control asm and replaced with new.
8. Reverse removal procedure and plug to power source and run washer through a few cycles.
9. This self repair took about 15 to 30 minutes and saved me about $150.00 on a service call.
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Cold water would continue to flow even when it was supposed to stop.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Campton, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed knobs, removed cold and hot inlet hoses,removed top cover, removed output hose, wire plugs, and three screws and replaced the valve.
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Fin Broke off the Agitator
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from STATESVILLE, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
My wife washed a washable mop head and somehow it managed to break one of the fins off the agitator. I ordered a new agitator, fabric softener dispenser, agitator coupling, and bolt. I figured since I had to replace the agitator I would replace everything. This was super simple and easy. I watched a few videos on getting the agitator off , some people said you may need to run some rope under it to get it off. Luckily mine popped right off. I grabbed both sides and gave it a good solid jerk straight up and it came right off. I used a 3/8 drive socket wrench and a 7/16 socket to remove the bolt from the agitator coupling. I installed the new coupling with a new bolt, lined up the agitator and snapped it right on. Popped in the new fabric softener dispenser and that was it. I may have spent a total of 10 minutes counting unpacking the new parts and carting the old ones out to the trash can replacing this. If you can operate a socket wrench or a new smart phone this is really a piece of cake.
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Huge Banging, Uneven Spin, Metal Fragments in Tub
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daren from Bloomington, IN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After reading all the repair info and reviewing the diagram for my wash machine on this website I was ready to tear into my washer. I removed the front panel and lid to access the tub, pulled out the plastic agitator and revealed the broken inner base hub. The base hub was cracked half way around causing the inner tub to drop down and d rag on the outer tub, making the washer sound like it was coming through the wall on a spin cycle. I then unbolted the plastic cap and removed it revealing the hub nut. The most valuable piece of advice in the repair info was abouthe hub nut being a laft hand thread (clockwise to loosen)and that it was on really tight and hard to remove. I put a short 8" pipe wrench on it, because of the lack of clearance in the tub, and hit it with the handle of a all steel hammer to break it loose. Unbolted the balancing straps (4) on the plastic top rim cap that holds the tub in place, unsnapped and removed it, then carefully pulled out the tub. I also had to unscrew the the control panel to reveal and remove the 4 screws holding the fill tube brace so I could push it back to remove the tub. I then took the inner tub outside and took it apart, 3 parts. The top plastic rim, the tub, and the broken base hub that are held together with torx screws. Then it was cleanup time, very dirty on the inside, used a garden hose, scrub brush, sponge, and soap. Cleaned up the hub nut threads with a wire brush and then the outer tub withe a sponge and shop vac. When the base hub broke it caused the inner tub and outer tub to rub together making a groove and plastic shards on the bottom of the outer tub that I had to scrape and sand smooth. A shop vac an absolute necessity in getting all the grime and plastic crumbs out of the outer tub so they don't get in and clog the pump. I received the replacement parts in 2 days! Reassembled in reverse order and everything worked great! Not a bad project at all when you know what to expect, thanks to Part Select.com.
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washer was leaking (noticed during spin cycle)
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Shady Point, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the d rain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.
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All Instructions for the 57481DCWW
46 - 60 of 395