41729 - Instructions

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock. Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new.

Vibration/Shock: remove front cover, to remove the shocks depress the tab on the locking pins and push out. Install new shocks and pin in reverse order.

Pump: Disconect power, remove front cover, slowly remove clamp from discharge side of pump and use a sponge or rag to collect water. About one pint will remain in the upper hose. Remove the upper hose after draining. Unplug the power supply to the pump and remove two screws securing the pump to the floor of the washer. Install the new pump and conect wire and hoses.

I watched the video on repairing an LG front load washer. Even though mine is a washer/dryer all-in-one unit to repair was pretty much the same. the only real change with my unit is there are two screws in the area of the bottom filter/drain hose that needs to be removed to be able to take the bottom panel off. This will reveal two more screws to take the front door panel off. To avoid a wet mess, take a wet/dry vac and suck as much water out of the drain hose as you can and have to available to catch any left over water that spills when the hoses are removed. Another thing that can be very useful is to use a piece of cardboard. When you remove the various screws, push them into the cardboard and label each set for reassembly.

The illustarated parts break down on the Part select web site was an awesome resource. It identified the exact part that was damaged by part number and comprehensive drawing. The part was ordered utilizing the drawings and on my doorstep within two working days, regular ground shipping. The securing pins were removed from the damaged shock absorber by driving them out with a screw driver (used in place of a drift punch) and a rubber mallet. The new shock absorber was placed in position and the securing pins were installed easily by hand and were securely in place when an auditable click was heard from the securing pin when fully engaged. The shock absorber kit came with an additional securing pin in case one of the original pins were damaged. The replacement part was of superior quality to the original.

The previous posts made it dead easy - remove screws at the back holding top in place; slide top back; remove screws holding door latch assembly; disconnect three plugs, and connect new part. Replace fastenings, done! Throw up hands and wait for the official time;)

Unscrewed two screws, replaced door striker and screwed the same two screws back in! I was done in less than 3 minutes!

I unplugged the washer. Then I unscrewed the two screws on the back, top edge of the washer. and lifted the top off. Next I unscrewed the door lock/switch assembly, reached down in the machine from the top and pulled the switch out. As I unplugged each one of the three plugs from the bad part, I plugged them into the corresponding connections of the good part. Then I screwed the switch back into place, replaced the top of the washer and screwed it back on. I set the washer spin and cheered madly when it went into spin mode. The hardest part was actually turning the screws because I'm a small woman and my hand strength is not what it used to be. But really there was nothing difficult about this repair.

I first checked to make sure that there was not a clogged pipe. After making sure that was not the issue, I replaced the drain pump. It was VERY easy following this youtube video, step by step. The hardest part was the getting the ring (with a spring on it) back around the part by the door. I had someone help me stretch it, and hold it so that I could feed it back on. A tool to stretch the spring would have been helpful.

Just aligned and pushed in.

Clear a work space, set up bins for parts, there are a lot of them, so upon removal, put all parts in same place (motor bolts in same box as motor, etc), use a digital camera to capture where everything goes.
Remove back, remove front lower access panel. Remove all plumbing from tug. Remove belt and large pulley from back (tap gently with mallet around perimeter to remove). Unhook motor wire connector, cut the zip tie. Remove the motor (4 bolts). Separate the front seal, remove the shock absorbers (use a deep socket to push in plastic tabs). Now the fun part, carefully tilt the washer back to the floor (2 people, it is heavy), while supporting the tub, to keep it from over swaying (I cut a 2x4 to size, put it between the tub and the lips of the side walls to keep it in place).
You should now be able to remove the springs (leverage them out with old screw driver), clear all parts from the tub. You can then lift the washer housing from the tub vertically. You should then be able to access the tub clearly. Remove the counter weights, set aside carefully, they are fragile. Remove the bolts holding the tub together.
Tap out the tub.
Reverse the process to put back together. Careful not to over tighten the bolts on counter weights or motor.

Use a cup to take the water out of the washer. Get at least three large towels -- you're going to have to sop up the water when you disconnect the hoses.

Take the bottom panel off (2 Phillips head screws). Drain pump is on the right side.

Remove the two screws holding the pump to the metal bottom plate. Use a small socket wrench and/or a screwdriver. I had to use a screwdriver on the right screw and a socket wrench on the left screw! Place as many towels in the cavity as you can to catch the water that's going to come out when you detach the hoses.

There is an inlet hose and an outlet hose, attached with bright green clamps. Remove those with pliers. Clean up the water that drains out. The hose in the back (inlet) has a "coin catcher" area. Clean this out.

Attach the hoses to the new pump. Screw it down. Replace the bottom panel.

drum vane had a hole in it replaced it using phillips screwdriver removed one screw ,pulled drum vane towards the door then pulled up replaced it reversing the procedure. It actually seemed to fix my leak during spin cycle

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the lid off. You simply remove two screws from the back of the lid and jerk and slide the lid towards the back of the machine. Take out the screws that hold the front panel on, tilt the front out and access the lock/switch assembly and replace.

I followed the steps outlined on (several) web sites detailing the replacement process. Just Google " LG front load washer won't drain". A couple of small quirks cropped up that required some adaptations such as: I had to purchase an automotive hose clamp to reinstall the main tub drain hose to the pump manifold. I couldn't get the oem clamp back on. It kept slipping out to the jaws of my pliers and I don't own a pair of those clamp pliers that make the job easy. Also, the hex head/phillips screws used to attach the front panel to the frame were very tightly installed AND they had their heads rounded off! I didn't have the hand strength to make the phillips screwdriver loosen them so I used a pair of vise grips to carefully start the process and used the phillips to finish. Finally, the wire loop used to retain the big gasket that seals the front had door is tricky to reinstall. It took two people to get it right. All in all , the videos make the job pretty routine.