11046 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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Washer would not drain.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Mike from Virginia Beach, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed three screws holding the cover, then one screw holding the pump assembly in place. After unplugging the power, it took two minutes to remove the clamp-rings from the hoses. The reverse was equally idiot-proof! But THIS "idiot" had 10-thumbs which added to the time to replace the lock rings! Added an extra 5 minutes at most! _g
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rin_
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The water didn't drain, so the drum wouldn't spin
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Jill from New Rochelle, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I took off the cover, removed one screw. Removed two hoses and the electrical connector. It only 5 minutes to replace the old pump with the new one.
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f35 error code
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Nathan from Cincinnati, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
removed 3 screws from back, then pulled hose of piece and disconnected wire clip. reassembled. have tu turn bottom of the piece torward you to remove from machine. this part is located on the back right side, black on my machine 1x2x2/4 inches in size, this is looking down into the wash machine from the front.
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It wouldn't drain anymore so I started looking on the internet for a solution. I came upon this website and found the part I needed. It was easy to install. It fixed the problem I had with the washer.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ricardo from DETROIT, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
I just took off the old part and installed the new one. The new part was a bit different.
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Drum was out of balance
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
wilfredo vega from STRATFORD, CT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Easy fix,
I remove the front lower panel and the shocks where right in front of you , with a little twist with an adjustable wrench the cam right off . I removed and the replaced and it the same when you remove the back panel.
P.S when installing the shocks start by connecting to the bottom and then connect to the drum it will m ... Read more ake it lot easier.
Good luck on your repair
I remove the front lower panel and the shocks where right in front of you , with a little twist with an adjustable wrench the cam right off . I removed and the replaced and it the same when you remove the back panel.
P.S when installing the shocks start by connecting to the bottom and then connect to the drum it will m ... Read more ake it lot easier.
Good luck on your repair
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Bellow was torn and water was leaking onto the floor
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Robert from GLENVILLE, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
(These instructions improve on the excellent instructions provided by customer Franck from Anandale, Va.)
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow ... Read more on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow ... Read more on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
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Washing machine leaked.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Tyler from OGDEN, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put
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new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.
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Torn bellows was leaking and eating clothes
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
James from NEWBERG, OR
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little mor
... Read more
e difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.
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The rubber boot assembly is not the same configuration as the original equipment.
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from wilton manors, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I had to cut new slots in the metal base of the machine cabinet to accommodate the different configuration for the rubber boot assembly. Thankfully the new pump works like a charm.
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The water inlet valve is leaking
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
James from PALO ALTO, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
1. Turn of hot and cold water valves. Disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the unit back panel
2. Use a nut driver to unscrew the top screws from the unit back panel
3. Remove the top cover
4. The valve is located at the top left corner
5. Use a torx driver to unscrew the screw off the valve unit
6. Unclam ... Read more p and remove the hose from the valve unit
7. Disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve unit
8. Remove the faulty valve unit
9. Connect the electrical plugs to the new valve unit
10. Insert the hose and clamp into the new valve unit
11. Place the new valve unit to the top left corner of the washer and secure it with the torx screw
12. Re-cover the top cover and secure it with screws
13. Reconnect the hot and cold water hoses
14. Re-open the hot and cold water valves.
15. Turn on washer and verify there is no leak
2. Use a nut driver to unscrew the top screws from the unit back panel
3. Remove the top cover
4. The valve is located at the top left corner
5. Use a torx driver to unscrew the screw off the valve unit
6. Unclam ... Read more p and remove the hose from the valve unit
7. Disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve unit
8. Remove the faulty valve unit
9. Connect the electrical plugs to the new valve unit
10. Insert the hose and clamp into the new valve unit
11. Place the new valve unit to the top left corner of the washer and secure it with the torx screw
12. Re-cover the top cover and secure it with screws
13. Reconnect the hot and cold water hoses
14. Re-open the hot and cold water valves.
15. Turn on washer and verify there is no leak
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pump would not pump out the water in the tub
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ron from LITTLETON, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
just changed out the pump. easy
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Door was not closing properly, broken swivel arm under hinge.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Gustavo from YOUNGSTOWN, OH
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
removed door from washer, set flat on table and just loosen up the screws all around, removed old hinge and replaced with new hinge, very easy. back to washing clothes.
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suds mesdsage apperared with f-35 error alert
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
mark from MOUNT HOLLY, VT
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Peace of cake! 3 screws at top of washer to gain access.
Unplug sensor, but first have to rotate sensor 90 degrees to release from bracket. unplug black tiny hose and plug wire from sensor. Install new in reverse order.
works great and saved a lot of cash doing it myself.
Grateful for the info for the tips from other's w ... Read more ith same problem!
Mark from Vermont
Happy Camper:)))))))))
.
Unplug sensor, but first have to rotate sensor 90 degrees to release from bracket. unplug black tiny hose and plug wire from sensor. Install new in reverse order.
works great and saved a lot of cash doing it myself.
Grateful for the info for the tips from other's w ... Read more ith same problem!
Mark from Vermont
Happy Camper:)))))))))
.
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broken hinge
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
randy from HONEA PATH, SC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
remove door from washer and lay flat on a piece of cardboard remove 4 screws from door hinge and take out just enough screws both sides of hinge to remove hinge from pocket of door,careful not to put to much stress on glass and gasket when removing old hinge and replacing.
very simple
very simple
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baffle connectors worn off
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
richard from chetek, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Placed baffle inside of washer and pulled to lock into place. EASY!!!
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