11046 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

The first step is to remove the retainer ring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will fin ... Read more d a spring streached about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or other to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.

The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.

Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and the secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.

Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.

Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.

Now it is time to install the Hose clamp. Un bend anything that might have bent on the clamp. With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.

Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. This w

Removed the front panel unplugged
The washer drained water out, lift the washer up to un screw the drain pump. Then unhooked the hoses from pump put the other pump in.

(1) First I unpluged the washer then I removed the water from the tube with a water vac.(2) Then I removed the three (3) screws that holds the front panel, using a Torx T-20 socket. ( this is a front load washer ). The panel is below the loading door.
(3) I packed towels under the washer.
(4) I slowly removed the cleanout i ... Read more n the front of the pump, using the water vac to catch the water as it leaked out.
(5) I removed the wiring to the motor.
(6) I removed the screw that holds the pump in place with a Torx T-20 socket.
(7) I pulled the pump forward so the clamps that hold the drain hose and discharge hose could be removed using the hose clamp pliers. ( they come off much easier then they go back on ).
(8) I tested the pump and found it would run but was making a lot of noise and running slow.
(9) To reinstall start with number (7) and work backwards to number (1) skipping (3) and (4).
Don Kramer
Wichita, Kansas

I discovered water leaking from the bottom of the door on our Kenmore front load washer. I did a little self diagnosis from the internet and found that this seems to be a common problem for front load Kenmore washers and that the ususal suspect is the large rubbery bellows. I examined the bellows on my washer and although I didn't find ... Read more anything wrong with it, I couldn't find any other likely causes. I shopped around and found PartSelect to be the cheapest for the replacement part. Removal is easy by removing the lower front panel with three small screws on the bottom front, then remove the very top panel and then the top front control panel and finally the door panel. the bellows are actually held in place with a spring loop on the outer and a screw tightener on the inner, both are fairly easy to remove and the bellows comes right off. For installation my best advice is to lube the bellows with a small amount of dishwashing soap in the groove that fits on the washer tub. This will help it slide into place and enables a small amount of sliding fine tuning once it is on. From there it is just a reverse of the removal.

I first removed the back panel held on by about 10 screws. I removed the drive belt from the pulley, then removed the lock nut securing the pulley to the drum & removed the pulley. Attached the new pulley to the drum, tightened on the lock nut, attached the new belt & ran a spin cycle. When that went OK I replaced the back panel & the ... Read more washer was back in service.

This model is a front-loading washer. The spring loaded retainer for the front of the boot must be removed, then the boot can moved to the side exposing the module. Remove the two screws holding the model, pull the model out, remove the three electrical plugs, then reverse this procedure to install new module.

Pump started making noises like ball bearings grinding. took the lower front cover off pulled the strainer out of the pump housing and found $2.55 in nickles dimes and quarters. Some 223 bullets and about 20 bobby pins. Together they had destroyed the impeller, so ordering a new one and installing it did the trick. Easy installation about ... Read more 15mins.

This do it yourself repair saved me the cost of a repair man's service call plus time to put it in. 1. First of all, make sure the unit is unplugged. On this type of front loading washer you will need to remove the bottom panel, which is secured by 3 nut screws. 2. Once the panel is removed you will need to use pliers to unscrew the d ... Read more rain plug and allow for excess water to drain out before removing the drain pump (get a pan or something that will fit underneath the drain). This is the area in which all the loose stuff, like coins and everything else falling out of pockets, gets trapped. The trap works well and needs to be checked periodically or if left unchecked it will probably be the cause of burning up the drain pump. 3. Once the water is drained you will need to use pliers to unsecure the two hoses attached to the drain pump. The pliers will pinch the wire clamps open and you can remove the hose easily. 4. The dryer is stacked on top of my washer and in order to get to the two screws holding the drain pump I needed to put a block of wood under the washer to give myself room to get a wrench to the screws. Once the dryer and washer were unloaded and nothing on top I was able to lift the washer and slide a block of wood underneath. 5. The pump has a power supply on the right hand side (a small white box with a wire attached) Remove the wire by gently pulling on the end of it. It is a plug type end. 6. Using a wrench (or socket driver) I took out the two screws (about an 1.5"). The drain pump slides to the right and out it comes. It is also secured by two rubber seals which are easy to remove as well as to install. 7. Now all you do is work backwards, installing the new drain pump by sliding the seals in place and wrenching the screws back in to hold the drain pump, followed by putting the two hoses back on with the pliers and placing the wire back into the power supply box on the drain. I would recommend anyone being able to do this on their own or at least with another person to help with a bit of lifting. The only way I knew to replace this part was because it was making all the noise, so it doesn't take much rocket science :)

Our whirlpool washer drum wasn't turning and there was a thunking noise from the machine when the drum should have been rotating.

I opened the top and back of the washer using a ratchet wrench. There were 4 screws holding on the top (at the top rear of the machine) and about 12 or more holding on the back panel. Removing thes ... Read more e I could see the belt had become frayed, had come off of the drum, and was bunched around the motor drive wheel. The old belt was still usable, but clearly not going to last much longer so I purchased a new belt. The new belt was tighter than the old belt (which is good) and so took a fair amount of effort to get back onto the drum. I had to hold in place while turning the drum, something hard to do because of the braces on the back of the washer get in your way. But, I eventually got the belt propery seated. I then replaced the back and top panels. All appears to be working as it should.

I removed the outer tub clamp using two needle-nosed pliers. Then I folded the bellow back and removed the bellow from the dispensing outlet. I then losened the bellow clamp using a screw driver. It was on there very securely. Then I had my daughter with her smaller hands finish untightening the screw enough to release the bellows from th ... Read more e machine. Then the bellow and clamp were taken out of the machine carefully, not scratching anything and noting orientation for new bellow. I cleaned the machine surfaces. Next, lining up the top notch on the bellow, it was worked into the groove around the entire inner basket. The bellow also had to have the hole covering placed over the dispensing outlet. This was the most time consuming. Just to make certain that it was positioned correctly took 20 minutes. I then put the bellow clamp back on and tightened it to the very tight positioned it was in prior to being removed. My daughter returned to help with the smaller bellow clamp that goes to the front of the machine. I needed help keeping one side of the clamp in placed while the other side was stretched out again to go onto the bellow. Then the machine was leveled top to back, side to side, leg nuts tightened. Works quieter than ever.

Don't know how they managed to get out of the washer tub, but we found a quarter, dime and penny in the "lint" filter (called the "Cap" in the PartSelect details). The penny managed to get into the impeller and took out 3 1/2 of the 4 impeller blades.

Replacement is very simple, about a 15-20 minute job Be sure the machine is u ... Read more nplugged for safety.Remove the three (3) screws holding the lower front panel and remove the panel. The pump assembly is a white unit about the middle of the opening (the original pump itself was black, the new one is white). Unscrewing the large cap will allow any residual water to drain out (we used a wet/dry shop vac to get most of the water out of the tub first). Following the wires going to the pump, there is a cover over the wiring connector that easily pops up and the connector can be pulled out. Directly below the unit is a screw with a Torx head that has to be removed, then two (2) hoses held with compression hose clamps that need to be removed with pliers. The unit will slide out of the base of the washer. There is a wiring harness in front of this assembly that can be popped loose on one side or the other to get the unit out.

Reversing the steps gets everything back in place.

NOTE: A notice came with my new pump stating that a tab needed to be removed on the wiring connector. It is easily removed by hand.

By the way - that was the most expensive penny I've ever owned! Pockets in jeans are now required to be turned out in our house before they are allowed in the washer!

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned ... Read more . That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

I snapped the piece into place. It took two people to do the job....one to hold the washer basket from moving and the other to snap it in place. It did take some hard pushing but it worked out great!!!! The repair man quoted me $130.00 for the installation only. And I installed myself it in less than 5 minutes!

Since most people do not replace bellows for a living, I have great instructions for you to follow. I found the entire repair manual on the web.Just follow the repair instructions as written. Two other suggestions, use a very small amount of liquid diswasher soap to lubricate the bellow when fitting it over the washer drum assembly, makes ... Read more life a lot easier. Second, get a second pair of hands to help you hold the bellow in place as you mount it or you will find yourself "chasing your tail". Bellow replacement and tightening the door and latch fixed the problem. Mom was happy :)...PS the buying experience from PartSelect , part delivery, speed was perfect!

Unscrewed door screws from washer lifted the door up a little removed door. Unscrewed screws from the glass side and f door remove hinge replaced with new hinge screwed glass door back together. Attached door back to washer screwed screws back in done