11046 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Simply removed 3 screws from the back of the washer, twisted the part to the side to remove it from the slot it fit in. Removed the hose, them removed the wiring plug. Plugged in the wiring to the new switch, put the hose back, slid the switch in to the proper slot, twisted it into place, replaced screws and cut the washer on! BINGO!! Bee ... Read more n working like a dream.

1) Removed back of washer
2) Removed nut holding pulley
3) Pulled pulley off shaft
4) Put new pulley on shaft
5) Replaced and tightened nut
6) Replaced belt on pulley
7) Replaced back panel
7) Washed pile of laundry

I followed the repair blog by the poster most liked...

It took a few minutes to realize that the part slide into place instead of snapping in. In order to get the part to slide into place i put my head in the washer to hold the drum in place then with both hands slide the part into place.

The water pump housing was leaking due to some pre-existing damage and leaking on the floor. The repairman wanted 60.00 just to show up. I purchased a replacement pump from PartsSelect.com and installed it myself by taking off the bottom front panel (two screws on the bottom and unclamping the two hoses from the pump and the two screws ho ... Read more lding the pump to the frame and then unsnapping the wiring coupler from the old pump. I pulled the old pump out through the front of the machine. I then installed the new pump and replaced the front cover. I saved myself a lot of money and everything went smoothly! The machine works great.

Open the bottom screws (hex-screw driver. remove riongs with pliers. use pan to remove excess water remained in pipes. pull to the right and remove. easier than it seems,

Remove outer retaining ring by pulling spring clip located at bottom of the seal. Push the bellows into the tub. Loosen the inner retaining ring clip (located on the left, facing the front of the machine) with a phillips screwdriver and guide the ring out. Remove the old bellows. Put in the new part with the tab on top and the drain h ... Read more oles on the bottom. Reinstall the rings. Kind of tedious but not complicated.

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and ... Read more trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.

Disconnected 2 hoses and 1 screw and remove3d the old pump and reversed the proceedure to install the new pump.A piece of cake. Thanks

Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of ... Read more pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.

I followed the description on this site, my machine was slightly different, but the basic procedure was the same. The tip to apply a small amount of the liquid soap to the bellows was useful to ease installation. Make sure the holes in the bottom of the bellows align with the drain in the bottom of the washer. The portion of the bellows ... Read more that attaches to the main body via the adjustable clamp can be done by a single person with two hands. The portion that attaches to the front panel with the spring-wire band is a four hand job. Position the bellows, attach / position the wire-band with the spring portion on the bottom. Starting at the top get your helper to hold it in position, using needle nose pliers stretch the last bit of the wire-band into final position.

Remove the plastic caps from the rear of the machine. Insert the locking bolts into the slots. There is a clip on the bolts with a corresponding hole in the outside edge of the slots, this tells you exactly where to place the bolt. In my case i used a large flat head screw driver to move the drum into alignment with the bolt by insertin ... Read more g the driver into a different slot and prying the drum into place. When i had the first bolt started and about hald way in, i did the diagonly opposite bolt, got that one about half way in then did th elast two. i did not need to pry much on these two as the drum was no lined up fairly well with the bolts. I tightened them up and moved the washer. You do NOT need to call a maytag agent to come out and do this.

i removed back of washer. slide out control board. disconected wireing harness.replace simpel

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three sc ... Read more rews at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.