11046 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11046
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water wasnt draining from tub/digital error msg
43 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Amy from Phoenix, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Took drain pump out and determined coins and practice ammunition are not good for drain pump rhesevior. Drain pump burnt up and froze. Part was easy to slide out and slide back in hooking up two hoses to it. Five minute fix!! Now we know where those rouge items went. Lol
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Washer leaking
41 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexander from Miami, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machi ne requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.
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Leak at bottom of door
37 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Wichita, KS
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed bellow clamp (used screwdriver to pry clamp open). Removed Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp with socket set. Removed Bellow. I had purchased new clamps as I didn't know condition of the old clamps. The Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp was in good condition, appeared to have an anodized finish - was not corroded and the tightening screw point ed forward where as the new clamp appeared to be galvanized and the tightening screw paralled the clamp. I assumed the new orientation of the tightening screw was to make it easier to tighten with a screwdriver, but space is limited and I had good success removing the old clamp with a socket set so I elected to reuse the old clamp. Plus, I liked the finish of the old clamp better - it had zero corrosion on it after several years, almost a decade, of use.
Reinstalling the bellow was the hardest part of the repair - it is just tedious and patience is required - I took a couple of breaks seating the Bellow to the outer tub. There was a tab on the Bellow which went to the top to insure the Bellow was properly aligned. After I seated the bead of the Bellow all the way around, I slipped the Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp over the Bellow and tightened it down - continually checking the seating of the Bellow. I then put the Bellow over the water inlet tube and seated the outer portion of the Bellow. I needed additional hands to help hold the outer clamp in place - my wife helped - and I used pliers and plastic pry wedges from a tire patch repair kit to pull it open and slip it over the Bellow - I didn't want to use screwdrives as I was afraid I would damage the Bellow.
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the strike hook was broken
45 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from st petersburg, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
replacing the hook was simple 2 torx screws. the latch assembly seemed ok I could hear it trying to latch the hook so i just replace the broken hook.
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stripped the threads on the water inlet
35 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Belen, NM
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Be careful threading the hose to the water inlet or you
can end up cross threading or stripping the threads, they are plastic and can easily be stripped.
It will save you time and $.
Unscrew the top of the washer and remove it. Removed a weirdo screw with a pair of pliers since I didn't have the tool to remove it.
Took out the old one and replaced it with the new one. Replaced the weirdo screw with a drywall screw and screwed it in place. Carefully threaded the hoses on and turned on the water. Success!
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Movers wouldn't accept washer w/o shipping bolts
30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rob from Yakyma, WA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the de cription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".
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Front Seal Leaked
30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Gonzales, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.

Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the be llows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.

I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.

The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.

Simple, easy repair.
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the latch broke on my front loading washer.
34 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deborah S from Connellsville, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
My son did the repair.So I just know he got it working.Also the part I order came the next day after I called.And if I ever need another part for any of my other appliance I will be sure to call you.And I have told other people I know about you Thanks alot.Deborah Gaffney
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Torn bellow. Water leaking
29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • krista from scotts valley, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I found a you tube video with step by step instructions. Very easy to follow. Repair would have been quicker had my kids not been at home. I had to have my boyfriend help me put on the outer bellow spring clamp, as I was not strong enough. Washer works great.
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Bellow was cut on the bottom, leaked.
33 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Mount Pocono, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The top panel was removed, right side pulls out, left side has a lint drawer that pulls out exposing a phillips head screw. The bottom panel is removed by taking three screws out of the bottom, then the panel pulls down. Remove the additional screws (4) holding the door panel on. Loosen the band (phillipshead screw) holding the bellow on and pull the bellow off the channel. It also pulls off the door opening channel. Pull the new piece over the channels, tighten the band and reverse the removal procedure.
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Water would not drain, motor died
27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Worcester, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
Remove the lower front cover there are three small torx type screw. The pump is the very first thing you see. Have a wet and dry Vac available you will need it. The drain pump and the drain lines contain a lot of water. Unscrew the big white drain plug at the pump and clean up the water, remove the front small mounting screw and disconnec t the two hoses in the back of the pump with pliers and follow the pre-printed steps in reverse. If your machine is more than six years old you will have to use a utility knife and remove a piece of plastic on the electrical connector that is from the washer wiring, if you force the connection on it will brake, look at the connection and the plug and attempt to plug it in before you install the pump. It is easy just be-aware of the connector.
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belt came off
30 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • wendy from Naples, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed back panel,unscrewed the nut on the pulley.Removed pulley and belt. Reassembled.
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Water leak under machine caused by cracked drain pump
27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hong from Flushing, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn of the electrical power to the machine. I took off the cover on the machine below the door. You had to use phillips screwdriver to get the three screws out. In order to replace the pump I had to lift the washing machine about three inches up slightly over to one side (needed a strong person to lift as there was a dryer on top of i t). The old pump has to be removed with a nutdriver as there are two nuts holding the pump in place under the machine ( I had to run out to the hardware store to buy a smaller one to fit under the machine as the big wrench was to big to fit under the machine). I unplugged the electrical connection to the pump. I unclamped the hoses attached to the pump using a plier, make sure you have something to hold water that will drain from the hose. I then push/pull the old pump to the right out of its place, it is attached to the metal at the bottom of the machine. I put in the new pump and tighten the screws on the bottom (this is the tricky part as you cannot see - a mirror may help). I also reattached the hoses and electrical connection. I turned on the machine to rinse to make sure there were no leaks before putting back the cover. Before throwing out the old pump, you can shake it and look in the opening of the old pump for any valuables left in pockets that may have washed out. I found a 18k bracelet, 25 cents and a small screw which may have caused the hole in the pump . Good luck :)
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Noisey when drum turned
24 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from North Pole, AK
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
To verify it was the motor making the noise not the drum bearing I removed the belt and rotated both by hand to see which one made naoise - then I ordered the motor.
To install the motor remove rear panel, slip belt off, remove 1 bolt holding motor in, carefully slide motor towards you until pivits disengage. Wires are ling enough to set motor on bottom of washer and rotate for easier access to connector. Install motor in reverse sequence.
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Washer would not spin ( F-02 comes on)
21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Dubuque, IA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1-Unplug washer
2-Remove the bottom of the front washer cover 3 screws
3-Locate pump and loosen pump drain cover turn to left just a little enough for water to start draining.
4- Suck-up water with wet/ dry vac. Remove 1 screw holding pump.
5- Flip pump electrical cover up and disconnect wiring from pump.
6- Remo ve 2 hose clamps. The outlet was not to hard to remove, but the intake was not easy to get the pliers on.
7- Install new pump. See instruction to install. I didn't have to remove any ribs to install the connector as in the instruction sheet that came with the new pump. Also I didn't think it was very clear instruction.
8- Last installing the spring clamps. The outlet went okay, but the inlet I never could get on. I could not get the pliers on the clamp. I fooled around at least 20 min. trying to get the clamp on. I went out and bought a 3/4 to 1 3/4 stainless hose clamp with the worm drive design. That is what took so long.You may want to get new hose clamps before starting.
Other wise I did okay.
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All Instructions for the 11046
16 - 30 of 309