Part Location Diagram of WP691366 Whirlpool Idler Pulley Assembly
See part 31 in the diagram
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Idler Pulley Assembly

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$22.42
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PartSelect Number PS11743765
Manufacturer Part Number WP691366
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Idler Pulley Assembly Specifications

This part provides the tension for a multi-ribbed belt and helps the belt to rotate the drum. This arm attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
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Part Videos

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Drum Not Spinning
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Roper.
Part# WP691366 replaces these:
AP6010582, 20061033, 20064638, 239477, 26000691366, 337116, 337407, 337510, 3388345, 338946, 3394332, 339465, 347034, 347226, 347277, 4319391, 688166, 691366, 8207, 99989677 ... Show more , W10612905, WP691366VP Show less
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 66 reviews. What's this?
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Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Ray from Denton, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1320 of 1431 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeaky dryer
My wife had been complaing about excessive noise from our 25 year old dryer so after DISCONNECTING the dryer from the wall outlet I popped the top panel loose @ the front with a screw driver @ each front corner @ took a look. No cause was visible so I removed the rear cover & still nothing so I laid the dryer on it's back to remove the front cover. First the 2 wires to the door switch were disconnected then the 2 screws @ the top corners that hold the front panel to the side panels were removed. The front panel then slid up & lifted off exposing the front of the drum, belt & support pulleys. Upon inspection I found the bottom support pulley sleeve bearing to have worn out. Both pulleys were replaced because they only come as a pair now along with the tensioner pulley (idler pulley), the belt & the rear lip seal on the drum since it had a 4" section missing from the edge @ one point (all of these were the original components). Replacing the rear drum seal took the most time because the old adhesive had to be removed. I did this first so the glue could set while I installed the new pulleys & belt. By the time they were installed, the glue had set enough & I could continue the re-assembly.
We now have a 25 year old dryer that sounds like it's new & @ a fraction of the cost
Other Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • CHRISTOPHER from MOUNT AIRY, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
155 of 167 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was sqeaking loudly when running
I Looked on internet sites for this type of problem.
Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.
I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem.
With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.
I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.
Your return policy is great.

Edward Brennan
Other Parts Used:
BRACKET Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Roller Shaft Washer Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Drum Roller Shaft - Left Side Drum Support Roller Shaft - Right Side Washer-Support Two-Piece Split Ring Bearing Light Bulb - 10W
  • Edward from Andover, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
124 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
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Tumbler in dryer was not tumbling
We discovered that the front of the dryer popped off after removing screws at the bottom of the front panel.
The tumbler seal had rotted away, the drum support rollers were frozen and the belt had broken. My husband did most of the work. I assisted, this was a 2 man job. We removed the old seal glue with Goo Gone, we put the new seal on with both of us working on it using clothes pins. Then we glued the new seal with one of us holding the seal up while the other put the glue under it. My husband replaced the drum support rollers, got the idler pulley ready and put the belt around the drum. He lifted and I guided the tumbler (drum) into position. I held the drum while he installed the idler pulley assembly. I kept holding the drum while he got the front panel, put it in position and re-connected the electrical wires on it. Once we had that done he was able to install the front panel. Then came the moment for the test drive, and what do you know but it worked!! We didn't have to spend $$ for a new dryer, it cost us some time (probably around 5 hours total, taking apart, ordering parts and putting together), and a little over $100!! We were happy!
Other Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • Vicki from Santa Maria, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
46 of 1298 people found this instruction helpful.
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Busted Belt & Pulley
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actually did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • James from West Haven, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
42 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer drum not turning and no air circulating
replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.
Other Parts Used:
Clamp-Motor Rear Drum Support Roller Kit SEAL Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Clamp-Motor (W/Shield) Lint Trap Housing Seal Blower Motor Shaft Seal Rear Drum Felt Seal Drive Motor with Pulley
  • Eric from Fort Dodge, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
34 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would not tumble.
I wasn't sure if the problem was the belt (probable) or the idler pulley assembly (less likely) but the total for both parts was about $26 plus shipping. So why not replace both to be sure?

As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. The belt ran in a groove in that piece.

The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).

As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.

My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.

I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).

Good luck!
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • John from Minneapolis, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Motor would not turn
1) Removed top of dryer
2) removed belt and drum
3) removed front of dryer
4) popped clips holding down motor
5) unscrewed rear fan from motor (by exposing and holding fan)
6) changed motor
7) changed support rollers and idler pully
8) reassemled dryer
Other Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Drive Motor with Pulley
  • Christopher from bellerose, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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belt making noise
Removed screws holding the lint screen,using a small pry bar poped the top of the drier and using a nut driver removed two screws that hold the frount panel on , carefuly lift it so the drum fall. then you might want to prop the drum with a coffee can while you get everything ready. Bend the idler tentioner back remove the belt carefuly release the tention, lift the tentioner out of its holder. Replace the belt and install the new and improved ider pulley and reasemble. Before you put the top down, make sure the drum turns freely, the rear seal on the back of the drier might be turned under the bulk head use a puddy knife and turn the drum counterclockwise one full turn and your ready to replace the top.
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • James from brooklyn, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
19 of 700 people found this instruction helpful.
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Badly worn idler pulley and rollers.
Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.
Other Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • TODD from GRASS VALLEY, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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Tom
August 10, 2017
Where does part 28 go in dryer?
For model number NED5200TQ0
PartSelect logo
Hi Tom, Thank you for the question. The Idler Pulley is down by the motor and the belt. If you watch video on how to install the part it will show the location or this part. Hope this helps

35 people found this helpful.

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James
June 12, 2019
Hi. I've replaced my belt but it seems to slip if there is more than just a little weight in the drum. My thought was to replace the idler also as perhaps it's fatigued from age. The replacement part has a wheel in the pic which seems better than mine which is just a half round solid piece which seems like it would cause more drag/friction. Could the replacement part be different than the original?
For model number LGR5636KQ1
PartSelect logo
Hello James, thank you for writing. This Idler Pulley Assembly is the correct replacement for your model, and may be the cause of what you describe. Replacement parts are sometimes updated by the manufacturer and may be different in appearance but will have the same functionality. We hope this helps.

15 people found this helpful.

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Edward
February 21, 2019
My tensioner broke.Do i have to replace any relays or safety switches or heating elements?
For model number 77965100
PartSelect logo
Hello Edward, thank you for your question. If the idler pulley is the only part that broken, and it didn't damage the belt switch this is the only part you should have to replace. I hope this helps!

7 people found this helpful.

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John
February 17, 2020
My dryer has a wear pad instead of a idler pulley
For model number Lgr3624jq2
PartSelect logo
Hello John, thank you for your question. Unfortunately, the manufacturer has updated that wear pad and no longer has it available. They have changed the part to the idler pulley, and have advised it would work as a replacement for the original part. That part is PartSelect Number PS11743765. I hope this helps.

7 people found this helpful.

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Russell
August 28, 2019
How do you attach idler pulley assembly
PartSelect logo
Hello Russell, Thank you for the question. I suggest watching the How To Video on the site listed under the pulley. Here is a link tot he video on YouTube as well. Hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXf2AL1MEzA

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Cherry
March 11, 2020
My dryer worked fine for about five minutes this morning. The tumbler stopped. I can hear a buzzing sound like it’s on. But when i push the start button, it will not tumble.
For model number LER5644AWO
PartSelect logo
Hello Cherry, thank you for your question. If the unit is turning on, but the drum is not tumbling we would recommend checking the belt PartSelect Number: PS346995. If the unit is not starting or tumbling you will want to test the start switch, timer, motor and fuse. I hope this helps.

3 people found this helpful.

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Adriana
March 5, 2019
Hi, this morning i tried throwing in a quick load of laundry but instead of just starting like usual a very loud banging/thumping noise is what i got from my dryer. I guess the best way to explain the sound is, like drying a pair of really heavy shoes.
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Hello Adriana, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!

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Sue
January 14, 2018
Today when I started my dryer, it made a squeaking sound and the drum did not turn. I called up your website, since I have used it with two other repairs, to learn what the problem could be. It is not the belt, it is not broken. It is not the idler pulley because it is a fixed metal support with a groove for the drum belt and the drum moves freely when I turn it by hand. I don't know what to check next or how to test the part to determine if it not working. Any suggestions?
For model number KGYS700JQ0
PartSelect logo
Hi Sue, Thank you for the question. This sounds like an issue with the Drive Motor with Pulley, PartSelect Number PS334304.Hope this helps!

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Kim
May 1, 2018
Replaced the belt on our dryer and turned it on and it ran for a few seconds and cut off. Smelled like something was getting hot and took apart look to see that everything was lined up again and nothing looked like it was melting. Put back together and start it again and just like before ran for about 5 seconds and quit and again smelled like something getting hot. What could be the problem
For model number CEDS563SQO
PartSelect logo
Hi Kim, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the belt to make sure it is not to tight. You can also check the idler pulley for the belt to ensure the pulley isn't bent or out of place. Sounds like something might be out of place. Hope this helps!

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Cody
December 2, 2023
dyer is squeaking (not a solid squeak) and slight knocking noise (sometimes stops for a few seconds). I tore it apart today and the belt is worn and fraying. The tensioner pulley looked fine. Would the belt cause the noises or is it a symptom of a bigger problem. Thanks.
For model number NED4705EW1
PartSelect logo
Hi Cody, thank you for reaching out. The issue you are facing will be most probably solved by replacing the drive belt, part number PS346995. However, you can also inspect the drum rollers. We hope this sorts out your problem!

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Related Parts:
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11743765
Manufacturer Part Number: WP691366
Brand
Model Number
Description
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11060172001
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11060202990
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11060232000
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11060232002
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