SCA1001KSS02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

I read your instructions sent with the new latch. Looked at a couple videos online and it was VERY easy to change the part. Thanks so much?

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

Watched Utube instructions on how to do it to it and just did it.

This is a simple task. Removed the choke cover using a putty knife or small flat screw driver. Putty knife works best. Slide putty knife under the plastic choke cover to lift up over clips all around the door. There are 3 on top and Bottom and 2 on each side. Be very careful or you will break the catch clips that hold the choke cover in place. Lift the door latch up all the way and push towards the outside of the door, then pull the top or bottom out then the rest of it. Unhook the spring end from the door. Attach the new spring to the hook on the door and then to the door latch. Extend it up all the way so the 2 hook parts of the door latch can go back into their slots. Unlike some others said, the microwave door does not need to be removed. If you have someone to hold the door still, that's good enough. I did it by myself with no problem.

We opened the microwave door and essentially with a straight screwdriver worked to "pop" the plastic frame off of the door. We tried to be less aggressive in our efforts and this paid off since we didn't break anything! The area we needed to work on was now exposed to put the new latch in. It took 2 hands rather than 3 to get the new latch attached and then wah-lah, It was done! Microwave works perfectly now. Great alternative to buying a new microwave!

Unscrewed the screw, removed old cover, place new cover in place and re-inserted the scrw.

I removed the door, by taking off the grill at the top. Then, take the puddy knife and screw driver and pry the facing off of the door. Please remember to be very careful because this is a sensitive piece. This is the most difficult part. It is a piece of cake after this. This should take about 15 minutes from beginning to end.

Placed the new tray into the oven.

Another company said the new plate would arrive in mid-March, this company seemed to be faster so ordered the tray here, and it came in less than a week. I put the turn button back in the center hole, set the wheeled ring on the bottom of the oven, fitted the new glass tray onto the turn button.

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.

Used a Motor cycle Jack to remove both unites combined. Removed side panels exposing internal working parts. Removed nonworking Magnetron and replaced it with new Magnetron. The process was completed in about 1 hour.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.