A610 Maytag Washer - Instructions

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the e ... Read more xisting screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

My wife got the washer for free but the elbow where the water is released got snapped off when it was removed from its previous location. I looked up the schematics online, ordered the part, and it came a day and a half later. The installation video on the PartSelect.com website was perfect. I followed it step-by-step and installed the ... Read more part in just a few minutes. The hardest part was hooking up the washer without leaks. Everything went great and I will definitely use the service again when needed. Best part? My wife is happy.

Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for ... Read more your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

opened front of washer, removed motor, replaced glides and springs, installed motor and replaced belts. Installed new hoses and vacuum breaker. Its been a week now and no leaks or other problems.

Easily

I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill ... Read more tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.

Our Maytag (A308) washer is now about 29 yrs old. I put in a PartSelect water valve 3 yrs ago. When it started leaking recently I found the cuplrit to be a flexible hose to the outer basis. The front came off easily (two screws at the bottom) and the hose clamps required some cleaning. I recommend purchasing new clamps. Under 30 minutes ... Read more to get it running again.

First I removed the 4 screws holding the old elbow in place. Then I removed the screw holding the cover over the upper access hole on the below the syphon break elbow. I reached up through the access hole and removed the old elbow from the inside. I slid the new elbow up through the hole, aligned it with the housing plate and then screwed ... Read more the screws back in to hold it in place. I had to cut about 3" off my old drain hose, because the outside diameter of the old syphon break elbow was about 1/16" larger and had stretched the end of the hose too much to fit tightly on the new elbow. I then attached the drain hose to the new elbow and tightened the hose clamp and reinserted the hose into the drain and pushed the washer back into place. (I used the old hose clamp rather than the one included with the new elbow because it still worked fine and looked sturdier than the enclosed one.)

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of t ... Read more he time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

The part I removed from the washing machine was hard plastic so when the flexible hose came I was a little unsure but because of the give and stretchyness of hose it was a simple fix.

Done in five minutes.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, beg ... Read more an pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Disconnect the electrical power cable from the wall outlet. No need to remove hoses or move the machine.

The control panel is held in place by two screws in the top (the inner screws.) Outers hold end caps in place. Once removed and layed on top of the washer, I made a wiring diagram, then removed wires from the timer. I ... Read more pried the inner cover from the control wheel with a small screwdriver (be careful not to mar the plastic, and it will be brittle with age,) remove the circlip and the control wheel (knob) and indicator flange comes right off, revealing two machine screws that hold the timer to the panel.

The old timer comes off, the new timer is attached to the panel in reverse sequence. Install the indicator and control knob. Then, reinstall the wiring in correct locations. Button up, and voila!

Easy to do, and maybe we'll get another 30 years out of this war-horse! Total cost of repair, $212.00.